Okay, today was a really tough day. I’m tucked up in bed as I write this, so I can look back and be really happy about the impressions I could collect today.

First things first. I wake up again before my alarm rings, using the chance to get up and pack in peace. Why not, when I have such a sweet view in front of me and the sun is already teasing me with its early morning rays? Some morning stretches/yoga help me get into the flow and physically prepare for the day.

Breakfast is awesome, the best one I had so far. No open buffet because of Corona and stuff, so a lady serves us through some sort of counter through the door, like at some canteen. When my turn comes, I tell her I’m a vegetarian. And hope nobody heard me. Something tells me vegetarians are a rare happening at this place.

After a short look of confusion on her face, she starts sweetly and generously offering me options from a whole variety of cheeses, salads, fruits and vegetables they have. She keeps putting vegetables on my plate without me asking. I am not so used to this here in Germany, but I am just thankful that I don’t have to push myself through with my wishes, as I am quite shy doing that. I end up with a very fulfilling plate, perfect for the long day ahead. And the coffee… my morning mazag, as we call it in Egypt.

My intuition about vegetarianism being a rare thing here was quite right. After serving me, the lady can’t let it go without making a comment about my being vegetarian after I sit down.

“More and more of today’s youth become vegetarians,” she says. After a short break she adds: “But I don’t think it’s bad. I think it’s good.” I find it funny that the comment is not really geared towards me. She just walks to someone else’s table while saying it, they talk about it, excluding me, and eventually they somehow end up talking about chronic sinusitis. *laughs*
I could’ve joined in on that conversation as an expert, too.

I have a whole table to myself, and I use the time to observe the people here. They are to 80% seniors, with only 2-3 women looking a bit younger. They all seem to already have met each other, probably from the days before. Two men keep throwing some curious looks at me, as they stand in line, waiting to get served. I don’t mind though. I understand that I might look a bit odd at this place, and all on my own to top that.

With a full stomach, full of gratitude, I head to my room. I enjoy the spaciness of the room, and I enjoy the excitement of embarking on today’s journey. For some change, as I pack up the last few things, I put on the radio that is standing on a shelf in this sweet little room, learning a new expression from some news channel – “corona chaos”. Some reporter asks someone if one can speak of Corona chaos happening in Austria. Okay. Let’s listen to something else. I settle for Blinding Lights by The Weeknd. A song I usually wouldn’t choose, but hei, it’s all about getting out of the comfort zone and stuff. And it really is uplifting.

Soon enough I am ready. Ready for what shall be another warm day, equipped with my new cap, a light T-shirt and sun screen. I give back my key and am given a very sweet goodbye by the lady who takes it from me. I go outside, breathing in the fresh, still quite chilly air, and instruct Komoot to start guiding me along.

Let’s go, Komoot tells me.
I head left, walk straight, am distracted by the way the sun shines through the tree leaves and the houses, but I get back on track soon enough. I am guided to the Salzhaff – the salt harbor. Said with a bit of dialect.

I’m glad to get another chance to walk by it. Last night wasn’t enough. Little do I know about the surprises awaiting me later, but for now, I am still deeply in love with the Salzhaff. The color play of the water, the grass, the sun and the sky is mesmerizing. I enjoy every step I take.

I spot some long blades of grass, the kinds with fluffy golden endings and I glide them through my fingers. They feel like the fluff of a cat’s tail and they give me a cozy feeling. I probably look weird doing this, but I don’t care.

My first break is taken when I realize it’s time to take off my trouser extensions, due to the weather getting warmer. I take the chance to eat the first muesli bar, and I watch a lady walk in the water with her dog. They’d been walking for a long time and they’re about 10 meters in, away from the shore.

My mind feels very loud for the morning, and so I take the chance to do a grounding exercise, mentally noting 5 things I see, 4 things I hear, 3 things I feel, 2 things I smell and 1 thing I taste. The exercise feels so good in this surrounding that I keep noting even more than the required number of things. Especially the sounds I hear are beautiful: singing birds, waves at the shore, cicadas, rustling leaves, footsteps, the wind.

I move forward, enjoying the calmness of the path, despite it being taken by many people. Every few minutes, cyclists need to pass me or I greet morning hikers with a smile. I’m in my own world though.

Soon enough, the path starts getting emptier and emptier, until I end up walking through a forest that feels like it’s entirely mine. There is a paved path, I am surrounded by trees, and all I can hear is the sound of the wind.

I take a short break, having another muesli bar and then I keep moving. I love the calmness and the green surrounding me.

Soon enough, I reach what feels like an obstacle but is actually not. I reach a tiny metal fence, blocking the way. It’s really tiny, so I could also just jump over it, but in order to make sure I am not trespassing, I walk along the fence for a while, realizing that the wire connecting the fence posts is electrocuted (it is of course not a life-threatening electric voltage, but you still don’t want to touch it). Hmm. How long do I keep walking? I decide to just go back to the door and jump over it or something. But let’s try opening it first? That I do, and the door is… open. I sigh at myself and laugh at myself. Why am I such a good, overly careful girl?

I am led along some fields, which are absolutely beautiful. I start listening to Eddie Vedder’s soundtrack for Into the Wild again and find real pleasure in every moment. I am so immersed in it though that I actually barely take any photos. Walking along fields on a path shared also by cyclists, while looking at this endless space and sky made me feel like I’m in another universe.

After passing this field of purple, I am led through a really tiny village called Teßmannsdorf. It’s really tiny. I barely see any houses.

As you see on the map, I am led through another forest afterwards. It’s this big green spot on the map. I am a little freaked out, because it’s quite late already and I am afraid to face any more spiderwebs, but thankfully the paths are all well-paved and I see one more human (a man picking mushrooms with a stick and bucket) and am relieved. I then face a little challenge, which then turns into an enormous challenge. Take a look at the screenshot showing my path below…

Do you see this very messy walking pattern of mine before I walk up towards the water? Yeah, that is me reaching the end of the forest path and wanting, according to plan, to walk the path leading up to the water. Guess what? Again, no path! It is only a hint of a path that is by now fully overgrown with reed. Oh man…

I try to take this black marked path, but it is so full with trees and I get again my very intense anxiety about spiderwebs (read day 1 to understand what my problem is with spiderwebs), and decide to let it be. But I don’t want to walk the whole way back and take a path running parallel to the street again. I had been looking so forward to walk by the water. So I pull myself together, grab a tree branch and start walking through the overgrown reed path. I am prepared to break spiderweb after spiderweb, but I don’t spot any big ones. I only feel a thread every couple of steps on the skin of my legs, and then around my arms, and eventually it becomes so much that I just decide to start running, eyes half closed, aimed at the water. I can do this, just keep running.

And eventually I do get there. PHEW! Well, what else would have happened? I would have surely not been killed by the spiderwebs, but you know… me by now. Hopefully.
Well, now I am there.

A beautiful view on the water is my reward! And you hear nothing – only a couple of SUP-paddlers nearby, gliding over the water. And then I look to the left, in the direction I am supposed to walk. And something tells me this is not good. The sand seems to be ending after about 30 meters or so… Oh no.

I realize that there is probably no path, no sand to walk on, as I would have expected looking at the map. In satellite view it shows sand along the whole coast, but the satellite shot must’ve been so outdated in this moment. So I am left with two choices: either I walk back (through reed, through the forest, back to the street) or I take the risk and eventually walk through the water. What do you think I go for?

Maybe this picture is a hint?

Of course, I decide to walk through the water. I figure I could use some cooling down of my feet. It is quite the adventure though, as I am constantly afraid that eventually it really becomes un-walkable for some reason and I have to walk all the way back. Still, I do it.

So as you see on the photos, the path starts with sand, and then the reed (this plant you see on the photos) would take over, and you’d really have to walk in the water. I have very mixed feelings about this. On the one hand it’s very refreshing, as the water is cold (man, am I lucky with the weather!), and on the other hand, it’s full of algae and stones. So I have to be very conscious about every step I take, in order not to fall and not to hurt myself. I consider it a balance and mindfulness test. It’s actually fun, after the initial anxiety phase is over.

Eventually, I find this couple walking behind me in the water. I am so relieved! It means that I am not doing something entirely crazy and that there will be a way out of here. I still have many kilometers to walk after all. And I am tired. And the sun is hot, and I don’t want to get sunburned.

They walk so fast, and I think damn, they must have these water shoes on. I get afraid, wondering if it’s realistic to reach my destination on my bare feet like that. But as they approach me, I realize they walk barefoot, too. I talk to them shortly, asking them whether they know if I can find a beach soon. The man tells me that there is no beach, but that I will find an exit through the bushes. I tell them they seem to be used to this path, to which they smile. Off they go, and I take care to follow them soon enough, as their presence comforts me. I still can’t believe this is happening, but I am so glad to be going through an experience I shall definitely not forget soon.

Eventually, with a big sense of relief I reach the escape. I feel such relief, and at the same time a sense of achievement that makes me very happy. I decide to take a break under a tree where the escape is. Overall, I had walked 1,3 km in that water.

I crave a coffee. And I decide to give my portable stove and the gas can another try. I can turn them on easier this time – success! But of course, as I expected, now I get it confirmed that the bowl I bought to heat water in is not made for heating (check day 1 to understand why this was no clear). It is plastic after all. :'(

So, once again…

I have to still my craving with this espresso chocolate – still yum!

I sit there for about half an hour. I love the sun reflecting off the water and I keep thinking how I would have been feeling in heaven, if I wouldn’t be so tired and if I wouldn’t have to leave again soon. So I try to close my eyes and feel in heaven for a bit.

I close my eyes and I listen to my surrounding, I observe the way I feel, I am just in the moment – the trick being not to judge anything that is happening. Not to judge my thoughts, the things I hear or the things I feel. In a way I am doing Vipassana Meditation, but I wouldn’t want to label anything. It’s something anyone can do. It feels liberating, because for just a few minutes you don’t feel stuck with any bad feeling or with the feeling that you’re obliged to do something about your situation. For a while, things are just the way they are and you are watching them happen within you and around you. A state of ultimate Zen I tell you!

So after experiencing my Zen, I get up to keep walking. I have to walk over a field that seems like many people have already walked over. You’re not allowed to walk over fields, but I just do it. There is not a single person to see anywhere anyway. Part of the field is filled with red plants that are beautiful.

In a way, they look a bit like desert plants or something. I want to stay longer and admire them longer and feel them, but I have to keep walking.

Here you can see how I have to adjust my path after realizing that there is no sand to walk on. From the beach, I walk into the light green area, where the fields are and then manage my way from there.

The sun is really strong. Again, I express my inner gratitude and relief over having bought this black cap.

I do slowly realize how much energy walking through the water had taken from me. Every part of me is tired, especially my left knee. But I gotta keep walking. Something about the pain feels good (please hear me out?), because it keeps me focused on my physical feeling, instead of stressful thoughts in my mind that sadly won’t have mercy on me despite all the beauty surrounding me. And so I feel into my knee, embracing the pain with every step I take that gets me closer to my destination.

I cherish little findings that pass me on the way and I stop every few minutes, taking all the scenery in.

I pass through little villages, one of which is awkwardly empty. Many of the houses are entirely closed down.

I walk and walk, exhausted as fuck. At some point, I walk down a street and look to the horizon on my left. I realize that I had just walked down that whole street I see in the horizon, the one that has trees on its sides.

I spot a mailman in the near distance, I pass him and keep walking. A few minutes later, I see him pulling over in front of me again, delivering more mail. I keep walking. A few minutes later, he pulls over behind me. So funnily, I have the same pace as the mailman. I am not that slow.

I keep looking at the map every two minutes it feels. Am I close yet? I am hungry and tired and my knee hurts. Although only 5 km are left, it feels like an endlessly long way. It’s also exhausting to keep walking parallel to a street. The sound of the cars gets very exhausting after a while, even though you don’t hear a single honk. Just them driving over the asphalt so fast is stressful in itself. So when I reach the entrance of Neubukow, I am left with a choice…

My choice is whether I want to keep walking along the street – here it would be Buschmühler Chaussee – or if I want to change to the hiking path in the green, called Jakobsweg. I had originally planned to walk on that hiking path so I decide to go for it, although my feeling tells me the street is safer.

And I should have listened to my feeling. -.-
Because the hiking path is beautiful and all, but it turns out quite steep and full of tiny obstacles. And I am tired.

Still, I am happy to be surrounded by trees and a stream. The air is also getting chilly, now that the sun is not shining on me anymore. I take some photos… taking breaks every ten minutes.

And so, I am finally in Neubukow. I already like the way the houses look and take a few photos.

And I have less than a km to walk… 800 meters… 500… 200… my knee, we almost made it, just stay strong!

And I do. I arrive at a hotel that looks exactly the way I expected (I was too tired to make a photo of the hotel) – with a restaurant below. I go in, spot a tiny fountain (yes, inside, but it’s kind of a portable fountain) and a counter with many flyers and whatnot. I do not spot a single person though. I also do not see a cash register or anything, so I must be standing at the wrong place.

I open the door to the restaurant area on the left, walk in and spot a lady with long black hair, dressed a bit in a rock ‘n’ roll style, drying beer glasses. I ask her where the check-in is and she tells me to come to her. She’s wearing a mask, above which her incredibly blue eyes really strike me. I guess she’s wearing colored lenses. A young man appears, also in a bit of a rock ‘n’ roll style, and the lady leads me to my room. The stairs are incredibly steep and tiny, and there is so much red everywhere. She guides me through the little room, letting me know I can go to her if I need anything. She’s nice.

Now I cannot believe I am actually in my room. I made it, dammit! With my swollen knee and my tired feet and my sun-kissed skin. I sit down, unsure what to do next, as I am tired and hungry. Do I take a break, then go eat? Do I take a shower first?

I check Google Maps and find that there is an Asian restaurant just 3 minutes away. I walk there, order some rice with vegetables and peanut butter sauce and then impulsively order a second meal, while they are cooking my ordered meal. I am so hungry and can imagine eating anything right now. I order noodles with vegetables. And then I walk back.

One last look at the nice view, loving the way the sun sets… and the panorama perspective I have on this tiny city center. And then I take a long warm shower, change into my comfy clothes, stretch a bit and eat, eat, eat. Tucking myself under the cover… waiting for the day to end, hungry for my next journey.

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Trip stats:
20,9 km – 5 hrs 4 minutes (in motion) – 4,1 km (average speed)

If you’re interested to see the path I walked on komoot, follow this link:
https://www.komoot.de/tour/264151291