Day 2 of “I am doing this again” – Kiel > Altenholz

September 16, 2023September 21, 2023soleil 3 Comments

*A purple blue sky greets me, as I open my eyes*

I open my eyes, embraced by the comfiness of very soft covers. My eyes wander towards the window, and I see the light navy sky being lit up with early morning sunshine. Do I really have to leave this comfy bed? Is it too late to change the whole plan? My mind procrastinates meaninglessly for a couple of minutes, and then finally decides to start this day. Damn, it’s cold, I realize, as I pull my legs out from under the cover, remembering that I was way too sleepy yesterday to put some pyjama pants on. Let’s first make some coffee.

Excited to take advantage of a very spacey kitchen, I prepare my morning cup of coffee and walk back to the bedroom to do some stretches, facing the interesting view outside. I contemplate about how I will physically feel, once I reach my destination today, as I stretch my legs. After I finish, I sit on the side of the bed and enjoy my coffee, looking outside the window. There’s a beautiful morning haze that makes some buildings softly fade into the sky. It calms me down so much to just look outside, to watch the doves on the top of rooftops, and I don’t realize I spend almost half an hour just doing that.

I take ages to find the energy to pack and go. It’s still the second day and I haven’t found my way to an efficient packing routine yet. I realize that with every hour I waste it gets hotter outside. But it’s okay, I try to comfort myself. It’s all just starting and it’s the way it is.

Finally, after checking a hundred times that I didn’t forget anything, I leave the apartment and walk down, excitedly taking my first steps of today’s trip. The sun shines in a heartwarming way, and the city is much livelier than it was yesterday. The plan is to walk along the shoreline of Kiel – Kiellinie, until I reach a super high bridge – Prinz-Heinrich-Brücke, to cross over to the other side of the Nord-Ostsee-Kanal (North Baltic Sea Canal) and continue walking towards Altenholz, today’s destination.

*The sunshine makes the water look like liquid silver*

After ten minutes of walking, I reach the shoreline. The young day’s sunrays fall on the water in an angle that makes it shimmer. A very busy street, Kaistraße, runs parallel to the water, with lots of cars driving past me and dozens of other people sharing the sidewalk with me. Even though it’s quite noisy, I choose to take in all the sounds and to not start listening to music already. Part of my intention for the hike is to be as grounded in the moment as possible, and that includes being present in the comfortable and the uncomfortable.

I am surrounded by many tourists, which somehow makes me feel less awkward walking through the city, kind of being a tourist myself, even though one can still see I am there for another purpose than sightseeing with a tour guide.

I pass by an enormous building, the Schwedenkai, a harbor pier on the Western side of the Kiel fjord, which fascinates me with its size and its position right by the water. I can’t help but stop and capture it on video, using the chance to hide in some shade.

It’s very, very sunny and warm. And a few minutes later, after some meaningless stubborness about not needing sunscreen – what I also like to call meaningless Egyptian pride – I give in and stop to apply sunscreen on my arms and face, and to also wear a cap. I underestimated the intensity of the sun and realize it would be stupid to get a sunburn on my second day. That wouldn’t make up for a good story now, would it? And this surely makes the hike feel more official, or at least a bit more professional, now.

I spot a gigantic cruise ship from where I sit and watch a group of tourists take some photos of the ship from the distance, while waiting for a ferry. I get up and keep walking. The closer I get to the ship, the more tourist groups I encounter, many of which are accompanied by a tour guide.

Apparently it’s a sightseeing spectacle, and I am amused at the fascination others are showing for it. Most of the tourists are seniors and English, it seems. I wonder why, but I know I am not going to get an answer on this day and keep walking. The ship indeed fascinates and scares me at the same time. It has so many floors, and I wonder how much fuel it takes to operate that ship. And I try not to think of other scary scnearios…

I count eight floors… 😨

Oh, well. I walk ahead and walk some more. I realize I got stuck in a parking lot, missing an exit about 100 meters back, just as I am getting into a good pace, and I still can’t deal with the heat. I start walking back. Can I make it? I am annoyed that I am already doubting myself and remind myself that I have a plan, and that it’s all gonna work out somehow. Worst case scenario, if all fails, I have other ways to reach my destination.

I walk next to a very noisy part of the street, a bit distant from the water, keen on reaching my next waypoint, where there should be a little park awaiting me. I pass a young man, holding some sort of rolled up print, and the anxiety with which he walks makes me feel like he’s about to hold a presentation at a university seminar or something. For a moment, I am also back at university, remembering the anxiety pre-presentation as well as the relief post-presentation. I also remember a certain sort of energy, an energy that was easier to take advantage of and to form however I like, than the energy I feel now. But none of it makes me want to go back. I am rather relieved that kind of anxiety is over.

Finally, after walking through a path surrounded by some trees, I see the beautifully glowing water again. It’s so calm, with people sitting in the sun, or cycling through, and I immediately take out my camera to capture part of it. Just as I do, I see a police car passing on the promenade, and I get annoyed at the part of me that flinches and starts to pretend I am not taking a photo. But as part of me already knows, the police doesn’t give a fuck and doesn’t even look at me. Oh, Egypt and its traumas… are you ever going away?

A few steps later, I give in and take a break. I’m still at 3km, but I remember that it is more important to take several small breaks, than to push it too hard and take a longer break, after I already hurt myself too much. A beautiful tree embraces me with its shade, as I sit on some sort of rectangular piece of concrete, take off my shoes and stretch my legs over my backpack. I enjoy the ease I find myself doing such a simple motion with now and realizing the shyness holds less power over me than it used to. I rest for ten minutes and continue my walk.

The police is having some sort of gathering by the pier, some officers excitedly walking down the stairs towards a boat of some sorts. Must be nice to have to do this, whatever this is, on such a sunny day, I think. I am again amazed at how little they care, as I walk towards one of their parked cars to throw away something into the trash can next to it. No one even looks at me.

As I walk ahead, I spot a woman standing by the edge of the pier, facing the sun, closing her eyes in pure enjoyment. At another spot, I see part of the pier turned into a bathing area, which would be so tempting to join on this hot, sunny day. The light reflects so beautifully off the water, giving it a lovely silver hue. On the other side of the pavement, I see people sunbathing, with a drink or coffee or ice cream in one hand, and I almost give in and join. But I still got over 10km to walk…

There’s a lot of construction works at one part of the promenade, making pedestrians have to walk in a wavy form, switching between one side of the pavement to the other. It’s a bit annoying and monotonous, so I put on some music. pov: ur in an 80s film driving at night, it is, and I immediately fall into a dreamy, blissful mood, as I hear Starshine and Outlaws (this one I highly recommend for anyone, who likes synthwave/retrowave music, that makes you feel like you’re in outer space – absolutely beautiful).

As soon as I realize that I am now past the harbor and much closer to the water, I forget about any annoyance. No boats or anything block my view anymore, I am just a jump or fall (please no) away from the water. At some point, I reach a beautiful panoramic view of the water and I stop to take it all in. Oh, how much I would just love to swim.

I realize that I am getting hungry and need another break. I sit myself down on a bench, protected by some shade and have a snack, as joggers and cyclists whoosh past me. I am not so satisfied with my pace today and realize that the heat is taking a heavier toll on me than I expected. I need to reduce the weight of my backpack and I need to wear lighter clothes tomorrow. And I need to find a solution for my hair. I accept that it is not going as well as I planned at this point and decide to cut the next part of the route, till the big bridge, by taking a scooter. It feels a bit like cheating, but I realize it makes more sense to use the energy I have efficiently, than to be stubborn.

And so, a scooter it is. Thank God there even are scooters at this part of the city. The plan is to reach the tip of Schleusenstraße, and from there to cross the bridge. Off we go.

I reach a very industrial area, with almost no one around. Some electric buses are charging, and I stand next to a big wall of what I later find out is a boat yard. I walk a few steps, and from a distance, I spot the bridge.

Oh my God, is that high! I suddenly remember the photos of the view from up there, which I saw on Komoot, while preparing my route. And it suddenly hit me how high the bridge must be to get that kind of view. And I’m supposed to get up there somehow? Okay…

I walk towards the bridge, and I pass some sort of fuel storage farm, directly on the shore. I don’t like the area at all, but I like seeing which purposes the shoreline is being used for.

A few minutes later, I am standing under the bridge, purely amazed at the height of it. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a high bridge before (it’s 42 meters high). I can’t wait to see the view.

To get there, I pass through some sort of little forest underneath, with a zigzaggy path, and then I have to walk up a very steep ramp, which leads me to a stairway. I notice I am sweating insanely, as I take a short 1-minute break, upon reaching the top of the ramp. Fuck, it’s humid. At least, the view is already a little more rewarding…

A few tired steps later, I reach the top of the stairway and finally find myself at the beginning of the bridge. Success! I take a deep breath in, put my backpack down for a couple of minutes to readjust myself and get some fresh air through my wet tshirt, and then continue walking.

I notice that there is some construction on the bridge, and there are almost no cars passing at all. And there is a chest-high concrete wall dividing the sidewalk and the street, which is an enormous relief, as it immediately makes me feel less visible and like I have much more privacy. And indeed, I am amazed at the view, which needs its time to enjoy.

Every few steps I take, I stop. It’s very windy up here, which is a perfect combination with the sun on my skin. I love that I can see an endless sky from up here, and so much blue underneath. As I am the only person up here for minutes and minutes, I feel like I am in some sort of movie somehow, a sci-fi, and I am about to discover I can fly or something. I spend a few very happy minutes up there and surely have my share of photos…

*I love the endless sky and the emptiness*

After taking in as much as possible and capturing it in my heart, I walk further, heading down on the other side. A very hidden path leads me through some trees, away from the street, and into some sort of green back alley, next to some farmers’ houses (or so it feels). It’s incredibly humid at this area, but I keep walking.

I realize I am about to walk parallel to some vast fields, and I see a bench, half of it in the shade. I decide to take my next break there, surrounded by mesmerizing green, beauty, which energizes my Soul and makes me feel like I have arrived into this hike now.

I lean back, enjoying the calmness, which is sadly destroyed every few minutes by some sort of planes, which pierce the sky and the rawness of the scene. I don’t know what they are exactly, but I know it’s some kind of hobby or a sport or something. They are not travel planes, and I realize with amusement that travel planes sound much nicer. These ones sound like some sort of old motor that is struggling to keep going. Ugh, what a pity. But after a few minutes, I fortunately manage to zone out from the sound and to enjoy the moment again.

Some bicycles pass by my precious hiding spot every once in a while, some parents with kids, some loners, like me. Some greet me, some continue in silence.

After I get enough break time, I get up and continue walking. I know there is a forest and lots of shade soon, so I look forward to that. I encounter a man, who had just cycled past me, sitting on a bench with a beer in his hand, and I say hello. Moin, he says. A greeting I am still too shy to use. (It’s a local kind of greeting in some parts of Germany, here’s more about it.)

The forest immediately hugs me with lots of trees and feels at least 5 degrees colder than a few steps before. I’m almost there. A couple with two black labradors walk ahead of me, immersed in a lively conversation I only hear snippets of. I watch the woman’s curls bounce with her movements, as she talks, and I am jealous of her light dress and sandals, which I’d love to put on right now, instead of my black hiking pants and sweaty t-shirt. But I’m almost there.

I pass a very swampy area, which Komoot made me think would be a lake. LOL. It’s basically a pond of water so thickly overgrown with algae, birds can probably walk on it. Nonetheless, I like to stop by it and to enjoy the shadows of the tree leafs falling on the surface.

I walk further and encounter a woman, who seems a little overwhelmed with three big dogs she is trying to get to listen to her. Good thing they’re on a leash, I think. She smiles shortly and in a thankful way at me, as we pass each other and as I let her walk through with her dogs first.

And then, I finally reach the village. Altenholz. With such relief, I seek a park, where I can take a break, until my check-in time comes at 4 PM. It’s still 3:00 PM, but I don’t mind, looking forward to a long reading break, which I immediately take advantage of, when I spot a bench in a shade.

Oh, the quiet. How beautiful. And the sun. And the fresh green of the grass… I extend my arms over the bench and lay my head back, breathing in and thanking the Universe for this moment.

Some little girls sit on a bench, talking to each other excitedly, they must be still in 5th or 6th grade or something. I enjoy watching the lightness they talk with and the simple things they are fascinated about. On another note, I see a teenage couple, lying on the grass, underneath a tree, making out without a single care about anything around them. How sweet, I think, trying to embrace some of their lightness of being in this moment, as well.

I pull out my little yellow Reclam book, Aus dem Leben eines Taugenichts by Joseph von Eichendorff, this time intending to finish it and to take my time reading that challenging old German. I had tried to read it like 3 or 4 years back, and I got a bit frustrated with the level of German it’s written in, but I am amazed that I can understand it much better now, and that I am enjoying the poetic character of it. And I embrace the protagonist’s energy – a wanderer, a dreamer, walking out into the world with his violin and childlike curiosity and wonder, getting hurt, feeling awe, and experiencing the bittersweetness of love. Just, as I pull up my legs on the bench, I spot a woman with a dog and an interesting energy walking past me, saying Moin, with a smirk. Hallo, I say back meekly with a smile, a bit unsure, why I feel so shy.

The time passes, and 15 minutes before it hits 4 PM, I start packing up my things. A group of little kids hangs out on top of the grassy hill in front of me, listening to very annoying, in my ears extremely disharmonic music, which keeps cutting off and suddenly going on again, like a broken signal,ruining the last minutes of silence. Probably for the best, I think, as they make me get up on time, and letting go of this moment much easier.

I walk through little streets, past cute little houses and reach the house I will be spending the night in. A sweet host, Mona, greets me and what seems to be a Maltese dog, barks at me. But after exchanging a few kind words and extending the back of my hand for the little dog to smell as a sign of peace, she stops and lets me pet her.

I am guided up to the little apartment, upstairs, and immediately feel at ease. Mona, who I am sure is Arab, like me, but I am too shy to ask, makes me feel at home, and leaves me to settle in.

A warm sunlight shines through one of the windows, and little welcome snacks in the kitchen make me smile. I look closer at one of the tea sachets – شاي … it says, and I smile once again, at a sweet, unexpected reminder of home, and with warmth in my heart, I allow myself to arrive.

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

If you like this post, I’m happy if you like it, share it or drop a comment below. 😊

Today’s completed route:

Trip stats:
ca. 12,6 km (not including the Scooter part, of course) – 2 hrs 42 minutes (in motion) – 5,4 km/h (average speed)

If you’re interested to see the path I walked on komoot, follow this link:

https://www.komoot.de/tour/1292708155

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Day 1 of “I am doing this again” – Berlin > Kiel

September 4, 2023September 18, 2023soleil 6 Comments

Part 1 – The Train Tales

I’m sitting here and it’s really happening now, I think to myself, as the fresh morning air blows through an open train window two seats ahead of me. Berlin whooshes past me with its familiarity and empty streets, a rarity to be cherished on Sunday mornings. I take a moment to feel gratitude, at the same time excited and anxious about the trip that awaits me.

Today’s plan: taking a Flixtrain to Hamburg Central Station, where I’ll switch to the regional train RE70 heading to Kiel. There, I go on a city hike and spend the first night there – a soft, welcoming start to my 6-day trek, before it gets intense. Part one, check. I made it to the first train that leaves at 07:56, and I did not oversleep.

As we reach the outskirts of Berlin, the feeling starts to settle that I’m on an adventure, another one that awakens body and soul. My favorite kind. What will I take with me this time? What won’t work out? What will I laugh about later?

I enjoy thinking that this time I approach things that don’t work out with open arms, accepting that there is always something that doesn’t go after plan, and there are things that go way well above expectation. Universe, I challenge you to challenge me.

I use the calm alone time to write some notes, to read and to listen to some music. Maasai by Surma accompanies me with its strangely warming and playful lightness, and I dream away, as I write and watch the beautiful fields we pass through. So many white butterflies at this time of year.

A group of other passengers interrupt my calmness with their laughs and their loud talks every once in a while. One of them is standing in the hallway with a beer in his hand, leaning on the seats of both aisles and facing his friends. They’re annoying me. But somehow I don’t care as much as I usually would. I remember earlier times of travel where this would cause me great anxiety and give me the feeling that the whole experience is ruined. I enjoy that somehow I seem to have grown a much thicker skin over the years and can zone out, if I choose to… But is it cool that they are kind of drunk already, when it’s barely even 09:00 AM? Well, it’s a good thing I’m sitting all the way in the back.

As I watch the details flow by in incredible speed, I contemplate how sometimes this feels like a symbolic passing of my own life. And I feel my heart overflowing with love for all that is and all that’s ever been. The blissful and the most painful. And it gets so intense that my heart fills up with so much awe for life, that I could cry. Especially with Empty Jar by Phaeleh playing in the background. And then I start asking myself how I could make this feeling last and how it’s possible that this feeling is so rare compared to all the anxieties and the melancholy I feel so often. And I hear a voice softly saying: “You don’t have to make it last. Just enjoy it while it’s there.” I like that and I feel it comforting my heart.

As we approach Hamburg, I feel the excitement grow stronger. I pack my things, swing my heavy backpack towards my back and get into let’s do this mode. I walk towards the exit area and hesitate, spotting two men, both clearly very wasted, standing there. Hmm. I choose to just walk back to my seat and wait there instead. But as I’m about to walk back, one of them opens the glass door dividing the two sections for me, saying “it’s clear you want to pass, young lady, come on”, and I notice it’s one guy I already had several encounters with, in which he chose to tell me I’m dressed nicely and am the prettiest woman on this train. I get a bit anxious at what he will say now, but luckily, he seems to be mainly focused on talking to his friend. And we’ve just entered the Hamburg Central Station anyway.

And then everything happens so fast. There is an incredible amount of people, a mass, a wave, swallowing everyone who might accidentally fall into it – like me – and heading into one direction. I am swallowed and walk with the crowd, totally uncoordinated on where I’m supposed to head. I spot a kiosk and run into it, anyway needing some water, as I thought of everything in the morning today, but filling up my water bottle.

Relieved to get the chance, I get a bottle of water and head out of the shop. The crowd is smaller now, I notice with even bigger relief. I can even make a couple of short videos, a new format I want to integrate as a sort of documentation on this trip. I watch everyone pass by, with all their different bags, clothes, ages, destinations. Everyone heading somewhere, chasing some purpose. Like me. Well, what is my next purpose? I don’t know, but I know I need some coffee before the next train…

I spot an empty coffee booth in the middle of the platform and am served by a very friendly woman, who lifts my already overwhelmed heart. She’s a bit surprised I want my coffee purely black, with no sugar or cream. This surprise moment I encounter so often always amuses me. I thank her, and just as I’m about to find a spot to enjoy my first sip, I find that the train already waits on the platform. Why is it only two wagons? Fuck…

Yes, fuck, indeed. The small train is completely overfilled, I notice, as I walk through, desperately trying to find a seat with my big backpack. I remember all the news I heard about the 49 euro ticket / Deutschlandticket (or “Germany ticket”, a subscription public transport ticket introduced in May 2023, valid in the whole of Germany, for all public transport), which I now own myself, causing very big amounts of people to take advantage of the regional trains and that it’s a very stressful situation. Like it is now. But part of me is happy to see it actually makes that difference and that it makes more people take public transportation, as it intends.

I keep walking and suddenly spot a 4-seater occupied only by one man. I ask him in hopeful desperation if these seats are free. He shrugs and says he doesn’t know, he was also walking through and weirdly found all 4 empty, and doesn’t know if they are reserved or what. Oh, okay. Well, let’s give it a try, I say, and he adds that someone has to tell us, if they are occupied. Sounds like a plan. I sit down on the seat opposite of him. It’s like our guardian angels kept those seats free for us or something.

I notice the seats are next to a bathroom. Well, maybe that’s why they’re empty? We’re not gonna get any quiet today, I think. But I don’t care, I’m just curious what form the journey will take and have no expectations of any sort of comfort I normally would seek. Next thing, a big man spots the remaining empty seats, too and asks, if he can sit next to the other man. The other man, while looking at his phone, surprises him by saying he anyway has to get off the next station, and gets up completely. The man sits down opposite of me and puts down a beer on the table we share. He’s completely dressed in a black Rock’n’Roll style, wears a light green tie, loosely tied around his T-shirt, a black cap and his hair is dyed in red. Interesting. He seems tired and a little confused.

It keeps getting fuller and fuller, some people don’t try to board the train anymore, others just sit down on the floor and give up looking for seats, and a young group of friends approaches our area. Annoyed at the situation, they choose to sit down next to us, two take the remaining seats, the other two sit down on the ground, blocking the path to the bathroom. I hear the train conductor, for the first time ever in my life, announce that the train is filled at maximum capacity now and everyone else should take the next one (which comes every hour). Phew. Lucky me.

I can feel the excitement and nervousness of everyone in the air and try to zone out by putting on my headphones and listening to some music. But there’s too much happening, and the group next to me laughs and talks with each other in a way that makes it difficult to zone out. I am also kind of curious about what they’re saying, but after a while, I get bored and put on some podcasts. The trip is not so long anyway, just around an hour and a half to go.

Part 2 – A Messy Greeting

We finally reach Kiel. The Rock’n’Roll guy and I say goodbye to each other in a sweet way. We didn’t exchange one word all trip, but I thank him for standing the weight of my backpack against his knee during the whole trip, after he smiles in a sweet way, while I take it away. He wishes me a great time, as he leaves, and I wish him the same. I like such endings to random encounters.

And then I leave the train, again overwhelmed by the crowd, stopping for a minute and looking around, until the area clears a bit. I feel my Soul excited over seeing a new station and city for the first time. And then, I take my time slowly walking out of the station.

Still not used to the weight of my backpack, I walk with quite some discomfort. The area around the central station is very full and I’m a bit annoyed at some people staring at me. After a few minutes, I reach an emptier street, full of construction works, so zero cars. I walk up what feels like an endless hill to the apartment. Fuck, I forgot to check how hilly this area is. I also notice I’m quite tired already. And I’m hungry. And my back hurts. Okay, just a few more steps…

I reach the address, take out the key from the lockbox, open the entrance to the house. It’s an old house and I like its aesthetic. Excitedly, I try to open the apartment door… without any luck. The key doesn’t fit somehow. I try again and again. This can’t be happening. Am I stupid? I go out and sit down on the porch, thinking what next step I should take. I write my host and try to call her with no luck. I go into the house and try again. I check the name on the doorbell what feels like a hundred times, cross-checking that it’s really the same name attached to the keychain. I start closely looking at the form of the key and the lock, and see that they clearly don’t fit. Wonderful. Things are going wrong now already?

I turn to the Airbnb support and a nice agent tells me to go sit in a café, as we figure this out. Coffee’s on them. Alright. I find a sweet coffee shop called Campus Suite and sit down in relief at getting some rest. The place is really nice and cozy and very empty, what a relief. And with a hot chocolate in my stomach, everything seems a bit less absurd. The agent helps me find another place, a much better one, I realize with a tiny bit of excitement. And one that is not so far. He cancels my old booking, and I’m ready to go.

Tired of walking (what a good, promising start, I think to myself), I find me a scooter and take it to the new place. It’s much closer to the Central Station and the location seems much more interesting. I take the key out of the lockbox, walk up a very tight and steep stairway, up to the third floor, and just as I open the door, I hear Hip Hop music. Oh no, is someone here? I walk in carefully, look around and realize it’s just some radio playing off a loudspeaker, as some sort of welcome music. That’s sweet. But it’s a bit scary at first. And then the relief hits me. I put down my heavy backpack and walk around, exploring the apartment, happy and amused at the way things worked out and being aligned with a much better place after all. I lay myself down on the couch and sigh in relief. Arrived.

Part 3 – Kiel, Show Me Your Secrets

After what feels like two hours wasted resting and writing an official complaint to Airbnb to speed up the compensation process, I manage to find enough motivation to still make something out of my hiking purpose for this day. I almost doze off on the couch, but then a tough voice reminds me I get only this one chance to make the best out of my visit, and if I choose to stay on the couch, that’s a very bad start. That does it. Okay, I’m getting up.

Of course, the route I had originally set out to walk is a lost case by now, but I still want to have seen a bit of the city, before I leave tomorrow. So I spontaneously plan a new route on Komoot, take some snacks, my camera, a book and head out. First, I walk past the Central Station, still a bit sleepy and confused from my day. I don’t feel very comfortable in the area. Very macho men keep staring and smiling at me every few meters I walk, which confuses me. Also, it’s very full and noisy, and the vibe is not the most uplifting somehow.

I keep walking up the street Sophienblatt, until I reach a park, Moorteichwiese. Immediately, I feel different. The area is much calmer and there’s barely anyone walking the streets. The sun shines through the trees, casting a beautiful, playful shadow on the houses. I pull my camera out and shoot my first real photo of the trip.

I keep walking, letting the golden sunlight warm my skin. I walk through a park, down a hill, I pass by a couple sitting under a tree, enjoying the sunlight, and two girls unlocking their bikes off the fence. I take it all in, still feeling a bit restless, and keep walking.

There seems to have been a festival or something, I notice, as I see a fenced area the size of a football field, being cleared out by lots of people and families. There are a lot of kids, playing, running around, screaming. I walk past two women, one of which suddenly yells at her daughter, who keeps whining around, and I notice two festival organizers watching from a distance, with a very attentive and serious face. I walk on, wanting to get out of here.

Next, I again walk down Sophienblatt, towards a bridge. This time, fascinated by the sunrays lighting up the street and the houses. I am also fascinated by the aesthetics, colors and shapes of the houses and use the chance to make many photos.

I proceed to the bridge, Gablenzstraße, and enjoy the spaciousness of the pavement, and the view over the rails. I love that no one bothers me, as I stop and make a couple of photos from the top.

A few steps later, I find myself walking through the parking lot of a public indoor swimming pool, Hörnbad. I enjoy the calmness that grows with every step I take, moving away from the loud street above.

A child happily runs over white circular markings on the pavement, while its mother tries encouraging it to come back.

On the other side, I see a seagull and a raven competing over a crumpled up paper bag, which is obviously empty, but they haven’t reached that realization yet. A young man with a green shirt and white pants walks past me, and I love the way his outfit complements the surrounding so nicely.

The sun is setting and I admire the warmth of the light highlighting the tree tops. I realize that I’m really tired and decide to cut the tour in half and make a short break in a park I’m about to enter and then to start heading back, while passing the harbor. And so, after several failed attempts of passing a drunken trio of friends with two dogs that take up the whole pavement, and one of them being nice enough to notice I need to pass and letting me pass – “gosh, the woman needs to pass, let her pass, shall you” (laughingly)– I sit down in a rounded area of stairs and let the sun warm up my face.

A calm couple sits a few meters away from me and a group of teenagers sits above me, on another level, much higher. I try to find the calmness to read a book, but my mind is too scattered and my soul too agitated from the day, so I choose to just have a snack and to edit some photos from the day on my phone.

Let’s continue. I walk up some stairs and go left, down Bielenbergstraße. Through some bushes, I spot a very old woman, wearing a light pink outfit, walking with her dog, very slowly, on a very narrow path, standing out in the midst of the dark bushes and trees around her. And just as I am about to pull out my camera to capture her, she looks at me. Dammit. I know some photographers have the guts to still take a photo in that moment, but I am always too shy and too scared to make the person feel uncomfortable. Or worst case scenario, to have them come screaming at me, like I experienced so often in Cairo, without me even taking a photo of the person directly. Damn those annoying scars.

Well, I enjoy watching her walk in her calmness, without taking a photo. It seems more to me like the dog is guiding her, not the other way around. I admire the groundedness with which she walks, despite clearly being unable to walk well anymore. And then I move on.

As I reach a traffic light, I spot three antennas casting their shadows on a house in a beautiful way. I also love the way the golden light just warms up the whole scene.

Walking ahead, I reach Elisabethstraße, which feels like an old alley, with many old, cute houses. The sun casts its remaining light on the roofs of some houses, and some windows reflect the sunlight, casting it on the street. I live for such details.

I take my time walking through, capturing all I can capture, and taking it all in in awe. I realize I feel much more energetic and fulfilled than I did half an hour ago.

A few steps ahead, I spot two old men hanging around a kiosk and smiling at me in a creepy way, as I approach. Ugh, why does this keep happening? I actually change sides and walk to the other pavement, upset that I have to do this, but I don’t feel like getting into any sort of conflicts today or having anyone ruin my precious time. I keep walking, proud of myself that I can shrug this off much quicker than I used to be able to. At least something positive about it. Although 18 year old me would strongly disagree that this is something positive.

Crossing Karlstal, a big street, I start seeing more and more people, many of which are young boys, hanging out in little groups of 4-5, scattered all over the place. I then hear lots of noise – kids screaming, people talking in big numbers, scooters and bicycles driving across, and I notice with surprise that I’m entering a square – Vinetaplatz – with lots of activity going on. And I hear lots of Arabic. Many families with children running and screaming around a playground, women conversing, men speaking loudly, almost like they’re yelling, but they are not, as they gather in groups, standing around in corners of the square. I smell shisha. I feel overwhelming familiarity, as if I am back in Egypt. I choose to enjoy the familiarity, at the same time craving for the calmness I am seeking on my trip and walk ahead. I can imagine it turns into a very lively square once it gets dark.

Soon, I walk down another pavement, surrounded by trees, next to a church. Pastor-Gosch-Weg. The light blue sky painted with pinkish hues awaits me at the end of the path. I walk and walk and face a beautiful surprise.

I find myself at the top of some bridge, with a lovely view over the city. Something about the vibe of it reminds me of Cairo. Like I’m in Heliopolis, looking over the city from a high building or something. I can’t quite put my finger on it, but I enjoy the feeling this strange association is leading to, and I enjoy the fresh evening air cooling down my skin.

The city seems quite grey from this perspective, I think. But even all this greyness looks lovely from the top. Seagulls squeak non-stop, circling above me, landing on the top of houses, only to continue gliding through the air a few moments later again. I walk, until I reach some stairs. It’s very calm, a pure enjoyment after a lot of noise.

I can spot the harbor, and I look forward to reaching it and to slowly put an end to this long day. Walking down the stairs, I see some young seagulls fighting over a styrofoam plate with some leftover crumbles and sauce. I am amazed at the size of these birds, which really feel like flying dinosaurs to me. I am relieved that they are seemingly the ones scared of me, and that they are not aware of the power they have.

A few steps later, I reach Germaniahafen, a small part of the harbor, with small ships docked. I stand there for a couple of minutes, watching a diversity of people walk by, while some skateboarders whoosh past me.

I decide to walk by the water, passing a couple with a brown dog curiously looking at me, with its ears lifted, and a person without a home, preparing to settle in their spot for the night.

I reach the Hornbrücke, a folding bridge, by now also a tourist attraction in the city. Sadly, I don’t get to see it folding this time, but I embrace my tourist persona and make many photos and videos, while standing on top of it. I enjoy the vast view over the water. I dream of taking the ferry that commutes between Kiel and Oslo from that harbor next time. I never really traveled by boat before and am curious how that would feel. But for now, I just enjoy the soft evening twilight.

I again reach the central station, pass quickly by a supermarket for some first day reward treats and dinner, and as I get out, I spot a fascinating reflection of the sunset on a building. Despite the messiness I carry everything with, I stop and fiddle around for my camera, capturing that beauty. I even inspire another person to stop next to me and make a photo as well. How lovely. With gratitude and fulfillment, I walk through calm side streets leading to the apartment, settling into the relief of things working out today after all and curiously anticipating the adventure that awaits me the next day.

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Route walked:

Trip stats:
6,34 km – 1 hrs 12 minutes (in motion) – 5,3 km/h (average speed)

If you’re interested to see the path I walked on komoot, follow this link:

https://www.komoot.de/tour/1292110278

The First Snow (07.04.2021)

April 7, 2021January 6, 2022soleil Leave a comment

Hello everyone, long time no see, no read. I have been craving to post here for months now, sad to have something come in the way all the time, BUT here I am! Yesterday was a day that had to be shared, a quite simple day in itself, but a very meaningful one for me.

The simple reason: yesterday it snowed!
And it was my first time to see snow this Winter, for I had been in Cairo these last few months. I was quite sad to have missed the most Winter-y days, for I knew I’d have drowned in making photographs, walking through the forests covered with snow… but it’s okay. I had a tiny glimpse of that yesterday! And Spring is on its way… who can complain???

So yesterday… I was working on something and just out of nowhere, I saw snow falling outside.
Oh my God, I’m getting a chance to see it this year after all!

After a few minutes by my window, I realized it’s too warm for it not to melt. I decided to enjoy it from the comfort of my little flat. But after an intense hour of watching it fall outside, sharing videos with my loved ones in Egypt, who couldn’t believe that this can happen in April, I decided that I have to head out!

But entirely alone like that? With your camera? Aren’t you going to feel awkward?, I hear my brain trying to do damage-control before any damage has even happened.

Yes, absolutely. I will feel awkward. I will feel shy. But I’m gonna do it. Yes.

Before I know it, I’m getting dressed, just putting on the warmest clothes I can find, still not grasping that I am doing this. A little background check to make it clear why it causes me a share of anxiety: traumatizing moments of getting into trouble in Cairo for taking photos on the street. Any kinds of photos. (Police-)Men appearing out of nowhere, asking me all sorts of questions, shooing me away for no valid reason whatsoever. Having to pay for their irrational fear of my extremely harmless little camera that just wants to capture nice things. <3

But no place for negativity here. It was a beautiful hour to spend taking photos on the street outside. It was wonderfully empowering for me, even though it is so simple in itself, and I have a lot to show. :)

Snow in Westend, Berlin — *The view outside my window – snow that makes you feel like a happy little child!*

*One of my pots on the windowsill filled with leftover soil that is receiving some snow magic right here.*

I first go out to the backyard garden, having been tempted by the white grass I caught a glimpse of through the back door on my way out. White grass… so much white. I look around, I feel the quiet, I hear the sound of snow hitting things around me… like very very subtle rain. I smell the air. It’s so fresh. I feel the snow crunching under my feet.

Snow on leaf in Westend. Berlin — *I decide to capture this little blossoming tree detail, enveloped by that cold white.*

*I capture a little Wonderland, begging me to drown in its beauty.*

Snow on conifer in Westend, Berlin — *My God!*

*This little tree detail amazes me with its color – the light in the background gives it such a magical glow.*

I realize that there must be so much more outside awaiting me. I happily head out… stopping in front of the door already to start taking more photos… capturing this magenta bush:

And I keep walking…

*It’s like the water drops enhance its glow – it’s so beautiful!*

Kirschenallee sign in Westend, Berlin — *One of the streets crossing with my home street. I loved the way this old sign looked in front of this background. It made me feel like I’m existing in another era.*

Branitzer Platz in Westend, Berlin — This was my almost daily go-to place in the Summer. To have my morning coffee in my portable mug, to read mind- and soul- expanding books, to share a few words with sweet strangers… It’s one of my favorite places in this neighborhood – equally beautiful in times of snow.

*When I see such miniature landscapes of snow, it feels like someone took powdered sugar and poured it all over these leaves.*

*Not forgetting to admire the details above, too…*

*A little dream of other worlds – and their strange creatures.*

*Gaaaah! It’s like that leaf was teasing me with this tiny bit of snow on it. Look at me, look at me. Take a picture of me.*

*I had to revisit those tiny mushrooms on my walk back.*

*And just like that… the sun started to shine. I felt so overwhelmed with beauty.*

Kirschenallee and Ebereschenallee signs in Westend, Berlin — *Someone was saying hi. I had never spotted that little creature before.*

*I had to really squat down for that one. Speaking of awkwardness… but it was so worth it!*

*A lavender bush – even though it’s not blossoming right now, I could still smell it so strongly! This bush is surrounded by bumblebees in the Summer.*

*And my bike greeting me after my little Tuesday trip.*

The funny thing is I didn’t even walk that far. I walked about a kilometer overall or something. I would’ve found so much more had I been in the forest or something… but I’m very happy. There’s so much beauty around. It was calling for me and I am not one to not respond!

I’m so excited to share more soon – Spring is around the corner!

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Autumn, I have hereby embraced you.

November 23, 2020November 23, 2020soleil 1 Comment

Over the last couple of months, right after the time I went on my solo hike in late Summer, I had the motivation to rediscover specific Nature areas around Berlin. My heart was breaking, as I kept missing out on several chances to do this and to take proper pictures, but thankfully over the last 2-3 weekends I managed to do what I had wanted to do.

I also had another aim, other than simply rediscovering the areas around. I wanted to really track my hikes / bike tours, in order to remember in the future which areas I liked and why.
The reason for that is that I keep finding myself in situations where I am spontaneously at a specific place, and I start remembering that I had been there before, but get lost in rebuilding a proper memory. Or, I remember a beautiful place, I crave to see it again, and I have no idea where it was anymore.

Now I want to change that – and this is me trying to change that. :) Here is to finding beautiful places and noting them down for future references. :D

I’ll start off by not only uploading photos taken on my hikes, but also by sharing the specific areas on the map.

The last few weekends I had been to:
Grünau (my favorite place of all for some reason, probably because I just have such an endless amount of memories there),
the forest area between the Große Krampe and Seddinsee waters,
the Nature Reserve Löcknitz,
and Grunewald.

The trips are not shared chronologically.
I simply shared them the way it felt right to me.

1. Grünau (31.10.2020)

This is roughly the way we walked (marked in yellow), starting at the station S Grünau, walking into the forest to the East, then towards the North towards the Dahme river, and then back.

It was a very calming and beautiful walk that day. It was cloudy and humid, but not yet very cold. The forest was calm, there were little people… I could enjoy taking my time photographing the details that fascinate me. <3

No, the leaves were not indeed shining in that color, but I sure like to dream…

I was lucky to walk with my cousin who had a lot of patience with my photo craze, allowing me to keep taking photos of her as well.

It was one of the very few times in my life to see this fog over the water, which mesmerized me. I had to remember days where I came to this lake, to this spot, meditating, thinking, writing my thoughts away, enjoying a very rare smoke, crying my heart out, praying for the water and the trees around to take all my pains away, at my lowest times. And looking back I can feel the healing that was occurring, even though it was almost invisible at that time. As I said before… I love this place and something very deep and fundamental connects me to it.

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2. Between Große Krampe and Seddinsee (14.11.2020 + 15.11.2020)

We cycled all the way from the station S Köpenick down to Müggelheim, and then started walking to the South, through the trees, till we overlooked Große Krampe. As it started getting dark, we had to cycle back, along the Gosener Landstraße, through Gosen, and then up to Erkner, where the train was awaiting us. :)

A closeup over the area we walked and cycled through. This is a rough estimate, drawn in from memory, as I wasn’t recording our path.

Sadly, that day I made no photos at all, but I was in such awe by the beauty around us, that I had to come back a couple of days later. And I sure let myself go taking photos, which more felt like a dream…

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3. Löcknitztal Nature Reserve (08.11.2020)

We had to take the car to reach this area, parking at Klein Wall, and exploring the rest by foot.

This place was also really beautiful. It takes about 40 minutes to get there by car, if you start your trip from the East of Berlin. Unfortunately, it’s very hard to get there by anything other than the car, but fair enough… it was worth the ride and felt like a little, very refreshing break from the density and loudness of Berlin. Add to that the extremely natural setting by the water – a real beauty worth exploring more than once. Add to that: it was so sunny!

I was told this is a Pfifferling… I still need to get into the world of mushrooms.

I love the feeling of moss on the hand :) This moss made the tree bark so soft that all you had to do was grab it softly with your hand and it would fall of with the tree bark…

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4. Grunewald (01.11.2020)

Last but not least, I’d also like to include Grunewald to this collection, despite it being only three photos that I’d like to share. I always have such mixed feelings about Grunewald, despite it also being so beautiful. Maybe I don’t like that it’s incredibly hard to find solitude there. It’s always so full of people… I think you could say if you live in Berlin, you must have been to Grunewald at least once. But well… I still can’t deny when there is beauty.

A rough estimation of how we walked that day. Again: I had not recorded our path, so this is just a guess from memory.

These little mushrooms were growing between the moss on trees!

I finally want to emphasize (mainly for my future self reading this and remembering the state I was in at that time) how much I appreciate the possibilities I have here, how much I value the freedom of the possibility to explore these natural places, to move freely, to sit in silence, to sit and read, to walk, to swim, to cycle, to wander, to wonder, to listen and to breathe… it is a freedom I’d wish for everyone to have. It is a freedom that heals.

With a lot of excitement, I can say: to be continued!
Winter is coming…

Day 8 of “I am doing this” – Poel (Kirchdorf) – Timmerndorf Strand – Wismar

October 16, 2020October 15, 2020soleil 2 Comments

My short distance walked today – from Kirchdorf till Timmerndorf Strand (both on Poel island)

05:15 AM. It’s raining. And it wakes me up. And I check the time. And I check how long it’ll rain. Basically all day. Wow, it’s really happening now. The sunshine is gone. I try to look forward to at least giving the rain clothes I bought a try. They are squished in the bottom of my backpack since the beginning of the trip. Time to put them on. But first, time to sleep again? Or should I just stay awake and keep writing more posts? I very randomly put on a podcast about the Simpsons – a very shitty one, as the speakers spend the first twenty minutes not talking about the Simpsons at all, but about themselves. Well, it’s still nice to just hear someone talking by the side.

08:00. I wake up. And I wake up unsure of whether I should wake up. It’s still raining so much. But then I realize everyone else is still sleeping and I should take advantage of the shared bathroom. I make some hot tap water coffee and chocolate porridge and enjoy the calmness and the sound of the rain.

08:30. I prepare to pack and pop in another painkiller for my knee. And for some strange reason I feel like listening to Jazz while packing. So I do…

Checking out is simple and fast. The woman who manages the house is younger than I expected and super friendly. She asks me if I’m going hiking and says it’s really nice when I say yes. Can you believe that not a single place I stayed in checked my passport while checking in or anything?

The rain has stopped, maybe for the rest of the day? I head out, wearing my waterproof trousers for the first time. I decide not to wear the jacket yet, as it gets warm under it very fast.

Walking to the main city of the island (Kirchdorf) is alright. There is no rain and it isn’t that cold. It’s really grey though. And I hear lots of cars. And I cross lots of streets… with ugly signs.

But I try to enjoy the wide scenery around me. Slowly I develop a plan in my head. I didn’t eat properly yet, so I’ll head by a café, grab a sandwich and a coffee, eat it by the harbor and then take the bus to the beach – Timmerndorf Strand.

I still contemplate whether I should later walk all the way to Wismar or not. It would be another 3-4 hours, and I would have to walk back the road I took yesterday. As my knee still hurts though, and I still have 2 more days to go on my journey, I will probably just take the bus today.

I walk and walk… checking the nearest café on Google Maps. I’m close enough. There it is. I wait by the door until the customer inside finishes up. It’s a tiny place, with no sitting area, just lots of bread and… only sweet stuff? What? It’s breakfast time! Even for my sweet tooth it’s a disappointment. Okay, moving on to the next café.

The city has a very sad vibe to it somehow. It feels different compared to other cities I’ve seen on my trip. It somehow feels poorer and the houses are a bit shabbier and less “stylish” than other city’s houses. I am surprised, as the tiny village on this island that I was staying in – Niendorf – was different. It was full of big luxurious houses. But I have to be fair. It’s a dark day, it’s rainy and it’s hard to feel a vibrant city vibe in such weather.

The next café I enter is an equal disappointment! Only sweet stuff as well, and no coffee even. Oh well. Two Spritzkuchen (a very sweet pastry you will see on a picture below) it is. Not how I wanted to start my day, but I am left no choice. I also feel a bit out of place, as a customer before me clearly knows the lady working there, and the man waiting behind me also knows her, so they greet each other with so much excitement, while I am just calmly getting my order taken and leaving.

I walk to the harbor, which is also not as impressive as I hoped for. Almost everything is still closed, there are barely any people and it’s quite wet on all benches. I spot a wooden bench that’s more dry and sit on it, having my Spritzkuchen. It tastes okay. Not the best one I had, but enough to fill my stomach. I start to make peace with the situation / morning not working out as I had hoped for.

There are two kids running around, playing in the rain.
Regenmatschpfütze! Regenmatschpfütze! I hear a happy girl screaming next to me and excitedly running through a puddle on the ground. She reminds me to be happy with the little nice details of the situation. And she reminds me of my earlier university days when I used to be so excited about the reflections in puddles of water on the street. And now, seeing them all the time… something has changed.

It’s time to get up. My waterproof trousers can keep the water away, but not the cold going up my butt. And so I get up soon enough and start walking to the beach at Timmerndorf, which is 51 minutes away via foot. I decide to do this to get warm and stay warm.

2 km done, 1,5 km left to go (since I’m going to the beach, not just to the city)

A few minutes later, being on the path and listening to Ocean Tree (by Feathered Sun, Christopher Schwarzwälder, Nu & Raz Ohara) on loudspeaker, I am glad I made the decision to walk. The scenery is beautiful, despite the cloudy sky.

I don’t see many people, but a few do pass me. At some point a group of older cyclists pass me, I greet them all and a woman smiles at me very widely, while scanning me with her eyes. It put a wide smile on my face. I got scanned a lot from top to bottom by passers by on my trip, but nobody looked as excited as this woman did.

When I reach a crossing, a couple asks me for directions. It gives me a sense of pride to realize that after not even one whole day of being here, I can guide them to some extent. It’s somehow uplifting to have such short, but nice encounters.

Walking further, I see something that gives my soul a sense of joy. I watch a horse that throws itself on the ground, turning itself around on the grass, as horses sometimes do.

It looks so happy doing that and then it gets up and actually just gallops through the field, over and over again, while neighing. A beautiful sight. If only all animals in captivity were given that freedom. I stand there and watch it for like five minutes.

I also like the way the way the street is naturally lit.

After almost an hour, as estimated, I get to Timmerndorf Strand. It’s a strange vibe. It’s clear that it’s a very touristic area, and like many other areas by the beach, it’s interesting to see how dead these places are without tourists. It’s like they can’t be nice without tourists anymore. Their natural beauty is corrupted somehow.

I still try to gather impressions that speak to me. But I’m still upset over not having eaten properly yet, and all that seems to be there is fish, fish, fish. No vegetarian options. I spot another bakery, but they also only have sweet stuff. Seems like it’s a specialty around here. At least they have coffee… so I order that to go and a Laugenecke (a croissant-like piece of bakery) and go sit by the beach.

It’s really hard to walk through the sand. It really sucks you in. I most definitely was not going to take my shoes off anymore. So I just choose a part in the sand, which seems slightly appropriate for sitting, again feeling the cold against my butt, and I eat and drink.

3 minutes in, I put on my gloves again, 7 minutes in, I cover my face. 10 minutes in, I get up and keep walking. It’s way too cold.

The bus is coming at 01:33 PM, and I actually count down the time. I give it another try to find something to eat and settle for some sweet potato fries with mayo.

Let’s just say it was enough to keep me going for a few hours. It’s the best deal I could’ve gotten at this place.

At 01:25 PM I’m sitting in the bus and thinking how relieving it feels right now to not have to walk. I watch the scenery of Poel pass me by. We pass by the same long street I walked yesterday and today and I think – wow, I walked all this entirely on my own. I’m proud of myself. Proud, but tired. Excited to be in Wismar. Wismar. I don’t know why but I always liked the sound of it.

And as I lie on the couch of the place I booked for the last two days, I write the last sentence of this post. I’m excited what Wismar has to offer me – tonight, tomorrow and the day after.

A cozy couch that I fall asleep on as soon as I write the last sentence of this post :)

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Trip stats (the walk from Kirchdorf to Timmerndorf Strand):
51 minutes (in motion) – 4,08 km – 10 m (elevation)

If you’d like to see the whole trip on komoot, follow this link:
https://www.komoot.de/tour/264964412

Day 7 of “I am doing this” – Neubukow – Insel Poel

October 13, 2020October 13, 2020soleil 2 Comments

Today’s walked route from Neubukow to Insel Poel

07:45. I hear my alarm. I’m so deep in my dreams that this is where I hear it. I snooze. 07:53. Second alarm. Okay, well, I can’t snooze again. But this bed is so warm and cozy… what do people do who really camp in a tent for days? I admire them so much more now in perspective.

Okay, up now. New day, new impressions, new adventures awaiting me! I am amused over the fact that I am so tired, yet so excited to go on today’s trip.

I had a really good sleep at least. It was a good decision to close down the blackouts. Body’s quite stiff though, and the knee doesn’t wanna play along. Maybe some yoga stretches will help. I do that for a few minutes, and manage to prepare a hot tap water Tchibo coffee. It actually works! It’s good, does the purpose and feels good to smell while doing yoga. And the yoga actually helps immensely. I feel so much better now. At least regarding the stiffness.

My nose is unhappy though. I take my prescribed Cortisone spray (ugh!) and accept the price of not tasting 60% of the food I’m eating during breakfast. I hoped the daily fresh air would help me, but it doesn’t seem to do much. I’m a bit sad about that. Since my knee is also not in its best mood and still hurts, I decide to take my first painkiller on this trip. So far, I’ve been very patient and careful with my body, and I think one painkiller won’t be such a bad idea.

Breakfast is sweet and simple. Black coffee, bread, butter, cheese and jam. The room is just big enough to fit about 10-15 people. It’s got a very reddish palette and the style gives a funny impression. I enjoy it very much, as it’s calm and I’m the last one to come, and the last one to leave. A woman with Asian features sweetly tells me that I can also sit outside if I wish, and on any other day I probably would’ve went for that. But it’s interesting how much you appreciate being inside, when you have to be outdoors all day long.

My breakfast… and gloves we were given to wear

The breakfast room – look at that funny radio on top of the cheese bar

Back to my room I end up packing in a hurry, realizing checkout is at 11:00 and it’s actually almost 11:00. Where did all the time go? In the end I rush unnecessarily, as nobody is downstairs anyway, and I can just leave the keys in the mailbox.

Off we go. I walk very slowly, enjoying the grey weather that is doing me well. I see the tiny city in a new light, both literally and mentally. As I had arrived quite dead the day before, I couldn’t take in so much, but now I can.

I walk down the Hanseatenweg hiking path, a really well paved one, half bike path, half hiking path. It is windy, it is beautiful. It is entirely empty. Cars pass by, but the path is empty. I only see two cyclists who are taking a break at some resting spot.

Somehow I am in love with the surrounding, in love with the way the tree leaves and the grass move in the wind. I immerse myself in the surrounding entirely. The only really big downside, repeating over the whole trip, is the sound of passing cars, when you are walking parallel to the street. It’s a sound that feels incredibly violent and shocking next to the very fine calmness of the setting that is mostly natural.

I can only stand the car sounds for a few minutes. I put on one track to start the day, fitting to the dreamy, but dark vibe of the weather. A very beautiful instrumental post-rock kind of remix of Bint Al Khandaq by Lost Souls of Saturn. It makes me close my eyes and feel the wind and the surrounding become one with me. It’s only me and them and the music.

I walk and walk, feeling very meditative. I focus on every footstep, trying to be mindful in order not to hurt my knee. I try to walk in a certain rhythm so my energy doesn’t scatter. I realize with happiness that on this trip I have surely become more “sure-footed” – I feel more confident with every step I make.

I am led through a beautiful forest, with high trees, calm and all to myself. I don’t see a single person. At some point a car, and then a few minutes later a minivan need to pass me. Other than that it’s just me and the birds.

It’s funny – the trees make a certain sound sometimes, when the wind moves them. It sounds like a creaking chair or a door that needs to be oiled. Like a sound you’d hear in a thriller movie. They give you the feeling that a branch might suddenly break or so, but it never does. After a couple of days, I got used to the sound entirely and just note it every time I hear it.

Today my mind is calmer than the last days. I am more at peace and more immersed in my surrounding than the last days. Maybe because I’m tired? I don’t know, but it’s a feeling that relieves me.

Some very interesting looking mushrooms I spot in the forest

I feel like I could use some specific music I had downloaded, despite loving the calmness. It’s the soundtrack of Into the Wild by Eddie Vedder, once again speaking to my deepest soul.
It embraces my heart and my wandering soul with the lyrics of the music, and the music itself.

Today, I can also really feel into the movie that the music is made for. I remember Christopher McCandless and his dream to reach Alaska. I remember his desire for a self-chosen exploratory isolation from society, and I remember the feeling it awoke in my soul back then. That movie felt like an escape for me, like a comfort that such a reality is possible, despite its tragic ending. I remember the hope it gave me. And so I say: Christopher McCandless / Alexander Supertramp, I carry you in my heart as I walk the steps of this journey. I carry you, as I walk through this forest. I am eternally grateful to you for what you could awaken within me, just through your journey.

“Society, you’re a crazy breed… I hope you’re not lonely… without me…”

Okay, enough. My journey is not even slightly comparable to his, but the fire that’s inside me comes from a very similar source.

More fallen trees making a nice pattern – yay!

Alt Bukow is my first break point. I have a good feeling about it. It’s a small village, and I find a nice little green area under a tree to sit on. I don’t see anyone – only cars pass by every couple of minutes, but it’s clear they’re only passing through.

A sign greeting me into Alt-Bukow… kind of

The city itself is entirely empty. It’s an interesting observation when entering cities or villages in the countryside of Germany. They often have a certain abandonment vibe to them, although the gardens are always taken such good care of and there’s a car outside of each house. You just… barely see any people.

My view while taking a break. I love the color contrast of the trash cans, the building and the sky. I also love the strongly falling shadows. Funnily, the building says “Youth Club” – it looks like it hasn’t been visited in a long time though.

My break food consists of salty seeds, a drink and a muesli bar

After my break, I am led to walk parallel to many fields. I pass by wheat fields, which are beautiful. I have to stop a lot to make photos or videos. Sometimes the motion of certain elements needs to be caught, too, so I capture it on video.

The only thing that becomes a little tough about walking next to the fields is the smell of cow poop, used as fertilizer. In a way it’s not a bad smell but… after a while it’s somehow harder to bear.

And me, covering myself in safety from the sun and the wind

My second longer break comes in a city called Friedrichsdorf. I sit on a bench in front of a pond, rest my tired legs and close my eyes.

My resting spot in front of the pond in Friedrichsdorf

I realize that I’m quite sleepy, despite sleeping long and well that night. I enjoy the surrounding so much, so I do my grounding exercise, mentally noting things I hear.

The wind… the rustling tree leaves… a cock crowing in the distance, cows mooing, cars in the distance… a barking dog…

The sun warms me, while the wind chills me in a perfect combination. It feels like a sunny Winter day in Egypt. I’m really thankful for the weather.

I mentally note some visuals, like a white mushroom, bubbles in the pond, shadows on a house wall, and crying trees, before I have a couple of snacks – like a stolen packaged sunflower seed bread from the breakfast buffet :D – and my espresso chocolate shot. And I make a mess. The liquid inside it flows down my hands and gets sticky. Faaaail.

It’s time to keep walking. The path goes mainly alongside beautiful fields…

Eventually I am led to another hikers’ path parallel to the street, and after a while, I see the water in the distance. My heart warms up. It reminds me of the times I used to travel with my parents by car to the sea, and we’d all happily spot the sea on the horizon, pointing it out and knowing that we are almost there.

That’s the sea appearing in the distance

And that’s the sea again from a closer spot

Fulfilling my newly explored love for panoramic shots

I am approaching the island. Finally. But somehow these last 4 km take ages to pass. I am overwhelmed by the views around me, but I am tired and annoyed by the cars passing by. They are so loud and it’s impossible to tune them out. And at this point I am so tired I don’t even want to listen to any music anymore. So I just walk and take it, trying to focus on the mind blowing surrounding I am getting the chance to witness.

Just so you get an idea – the coming photos are all taken at this area – walking down bridges crossing the water to get to Poel

Here is the view a bit zoomed out, showing m

I am sincerely always so fascinated by such moments

…and to my front.. ugh! I’m telling you – I was stopping for a photo every two minutes

Crossing the last bridge before entering the island

Although the orange color of the fence is really… well, hard to like, I love the way it contrasts with the color of the water

Now that’s what I call a sincere greeting!

As soon as I reach the 1,5 km mark to my destination, I keep staring at my phone every few seconds, as if that will make time and distance pass faster. It doesn’t. But I am so tired! And then I realize that I hadn’t updated the destination to guide me to the guesthouse… again. So I do. And it adds another 1 km to it. So I still have to walk 2,5 km. Okay… no choice but to stick to it now.

Finally I reach the guesthouse in Niendorf, a tiny village on the island. I let myself in (the hostess left me the key in an envelope in the mailbox – I catch it by chance, right before I am about to ring the bell). I get in, and nobody’s there. Yay! Sincerely, yay, as all I want to do is just fall into my room and bed and talk to nobody.

It’s a very stylish house, put together with a lot of love. I love my room with a view right away.

I have a warm shower and a comfortable evening, writing down notes and letting the day pass revue. It’s so beautifully quiet, but an annoying guest talks on the phone till about 11 PM, and it sounds like she’s sitting with me in the same room.

Ugh. well, nonetheless I am eagerly waiting for tomorrow. I am excited to see more of the island and then finally to head to Wismar, in disbelief over the fact that I have actually almost made it.

And now… recharge, girl.

(I finally put that plastic cup to use and made hot tap water cocoa-flavored porridge for the first time in it – yay!)

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

Trip stats:
21,9 km – 4 hrs 44 minutes (in motion) – 4,6 km (average speed) – 100 m (elevation)

If you’d like to see my full route on komoot, follow this link:
https://www.komoot.de/tour/264582032/zoom

Day 6 of “I am doing this” – Rerik – Neubukow

October 5, 2020October 5, 2020soleil Leave a comment

Okay, today was a really tough day. I’m tucked up in bed as I write this, so I can look back and be really happy about the impressions I could collect today.

First things first. I wake up again before my alarm rings, using the chance to get up and pack in peace. Why not, when I have such a sweet view in front of me and the sun is already teasing me with its early morning rays? Some morning stretches/yoga help me get into the flow and physically prepare for the day.

Breakfast is awesome, the best one I had so far. No open buffet because of Corona and stuff, so a lady serves us through some sort of counter through the door, like at some canteen. When my turn comes, I tell her I’m a vegetarian. And hope nobody heard me. Something tells me vegetarians are a rare happening at this place.

After a short look of confusion on her face, she starts sweetly and generously offering me options from a whole variety of cheeses, salads, fruits and vegetables they have. She keeps putting vegetables on my plate without me asking. I am not so used to this here in Germany, but I am just thankful that I don’t have to push myself through with my wishes, as I am quite shy doing that. I end up with a very fulfilling plate, perfect for the long day ahead. And the coffee… my morning mazag, as we call it in Egypt.

My intuition about vegetarianism being a rare thing here was quite right. After serving me, the lady can’t let it go without making a comment about my being vegetarian after I sit down.

“More and more of today’s youth become vegetarians,” she says. After a short break she adds: “But I don’t think it’s bad. I think it’s good.” I find it funny that the comment is not really geared towards me. She just walks to someone else’s table while saying it, they talk about it, excluding me, and eventually they somehow end up talking about chronic sinusitis. *laughs*
I could’ve joined in on that conversation as an expert, too.

I have a whole table to myself, and I use the time to observe the people here. They are to 80% seniors, with only 2-3 women looking a bit younger. They all seem to already have met each other, probably from the days before. Two men keep throwing some curious looks at me, as they stand in line, waiting to get served. I don’t mind though. I understand that I might look a bit odd at this place, and all on my own to top that.

With a full stomach, full of gratitude, I head to my room. I enjoy the spaciness of the room, and I enjoy the excitement of embarking on today’s journey. For some change, as I pack up the last few things, I put on the radio that is standing on a shelf in this sweet little room, learning a new expression from some news channel – “corona chaos”. Some reporter asks someone if one can speak of Corona chaos happening in Austria. Okay. Let’s listen to something else. I settle for Blinding Lights by The Weeknd. A song I usually wouldn’t choose, but hei, it’s all about getting out of the comfort zone and stuff. And it really is uplifting.

Soon enough I am ready. Ready for what shall be another warm day, equipped with my new cap, a light T-shirt and sun screen. I give back my key and am given a very sweet goodbye by the lady who takes it from me. I go outside, breathing in the fresh, still quite chilly air, and instruct Komoot to start guiding me along.

Let’s go, Komoot tells me.
I head left, walk straight, am distracted by the way the sun shines through the tree leaves and the houses, but I get back on track soon enough. I am guided to the Salzhaff – the salt harbor. Said with a bit of dialect.

Seagulls taking a morning sun dip in the Salzhaff

I’m glad to get another chance to walk by it. Last night wasn’t enough. Little do I know about the surprises awaiting me later, but for now, I am still deeply in love with the Salzhaff. The color play of the water, the grass, the sun and the sky is mesmerizing. I enjoy every step I take.

Kind of like a glimpse of how you’d imagine paradise, no? At least my imaginations were similar to this… an endless garden…

I spot some long blades of grass, the kinds with fluffy golden endings and I glide them through my fingers. They feel like the fluff of a cat’s tail and they give me a cozy feeling. I probably look weird doing this, but I don’t care.

My first break is taken when I realize it’s time to take off my trouser extensions, due to the weather getting warmer. I take the chance to eat the first muesli bar, and I watch a lady walk in the water with her dog. They’d been walking for a long time and they’re about 10 meters in, away from the shore.

My mind feels very loud for the morning, and so I take the chance to do a grounding exercise, mentally noting 5 things I see, 4 things I hear, 3 things I feel, 2 things I smell and 1 thing I taste. The exercise feels so good in this surrounding that I keep noting even more than the required number of things. Especially the sounds I hear are beautiful: singing birds, waves at the shore, cicadas, rustling leaves, footsteps, the wind.

I move forward, enjoying the calmness of the path, despite it being taken by many people. Every few minutes, cyclists need to pass me or I greet morning hikers with a smile. I’m in my own world though.

A seashore aster (aster tripolium) according to PlantNet

Soon enough, the path starts getting emptier and emptier, until I end up walking through a forest that feels like it’s entirely mine. There is a paved path, I am surrounded by trees, and all I can hear is the sound of the wind.

I take a short break, having another muesli bar and then I keep moving. I love the calmness and the green surrounding me.

Soon enough, I reach what feels like an obstacle but is actually not. I reach a tiny metal fence, blocking the way. It’s really tiny, so I could also just jump over it, but in order to make sure I am not trespassing, I walk along the fence for a while, realizing that the wire connecting the fence posts is electrocuted (it is of course not a life-threatening electric voltage, but you still don’t want to touch it). Hmm. How long do I keep walking? I decide to just go back to the door and jump over it or something. But let’s try opening it first? That I do, and the door is… open. I sigh at myself and laugh at myself. Why am I such a good, overly careful girl?

After having passed the door, I realized I should take a photo of it for my blog. There you have it. And this wire you see on the right side is the one that is electrically charged.

I am led along some fields, which are absolutely beautiful. I start listening to Eddie Vedder’s soundtrack for Into the Wild again and find real pleasure in every moment. I am so immersed in it though that I actually barely take any photos. Walking along fields on a path shared also by cyclists, while looking at this endless space and sky made me feel like I’m in another universe.

A little field panorama – look at all this space…

I love the color of the tree bark against the green of the grass.

A tree I liked – it might have been a mountain-ash (Sorbus aucuparia (lat.); Eberesche (German)), but I cannot be 100% sure

And then I pass this endless field of purple!

And the SMELL! I could smell these flowers all over…

According to PlantNet, they are called Purple Tansy (Phacelia tanacetifolia) :)

After passing this field of purple, I am led through a really tiny village called Teßmannsdorf. It’s really tiny. I barely see any houses.

Me walking through Teßmannsdorf – it took me just about 15 minutes to get through it.

As you see on the map, I am led through another forest afterwards. It’s this big green spot on the map. I am a little freaked out, because it’s quite late already and I am afraid to face any more spiderwebs, but thankfully the paths are all well-paved and I see one more human (a man picking mushrooms with a stick and bucket) and am relieved. I then face a little challenge, which then turns into an enormous challenge. Take a look at the screenshot showing my path below…

Do you see this very messy walking pattern of mine before I walk up towards the water? Yeah, that is me reaching the end of the forest path and wanting, according to plan, to walk the path leading up to the water. Guess what? Again, no path! It is only a hint of a path that is by now fully overgrown with reed. Oh man…

I try to take this black marked path, but it is so full with trees and I get again my very intense anxiety about spiderwebs (read day 1 to understand what my problem is with spiderwebs), and decide to let it be. But I don’t want to walk the whole way back and take a path running parallel to the street again. I had been looking so forward to walk by the water. So I pull myself together, grab a tree branch and start walking through the overgrown reed path. I am prepared to break spiderweb after spiderweb, but I don’t spot any big ones. I only feel a thread every couple of steps on the skin of my legs, and then around my arms, and eventually it becomes so much that I just decide to start running, eyes half closed, aimed at the water. I can do this, just keep running.

And eventually I do get there. PHEW! Well, what else would have happened? I would have surely not been killed by the spiderwebs, but you know… me by now. Hopefully.
Well, now I am there.

A beautiful view on the water is my reward! And you hear nothing – only a couple of SUP-paddlers nearby, gliding over the water. And then I look to the left, in the direction I am supposed to walk. And something tells me this is not good. The sand seems to be ending after about 30 meters or so… Oh no.

I realize that there is probably no path, no sand to walk on, as I would have expected looking at the map. In satellite view it shows sand along the whole coast, but the satellite shot must’ve been so outdated in this moment. So I am left with two choices: either I walk back (through reed, through the forest, back to the street) or I take the risk and eventually walk through the water. What do you think I go for?

Maybe this picture is a hint?

Of course, I decide to walk through the water. I figure I could use some cooling down of my feet. It is quite the adventure though, as I am constantly afraid that eventually it really becomes un-walkable for some reason and I have to walk all the way back. Still, I do it.

My view at the beginning. Still all good – all just sand!

And the water is crystal clear and fresh…

And then I’d find more and more such surprises…

Really looking forward for such breaks in the middle, finding more sand…

So as you see on the photos, the path starts with sand, and then the reed (this plant you see on the photos) would take over, and you’d really have to walk in the water. I have very mixed feelings about this. On the one hand it’s very refreshing, as the water is cold (man, am I lucky with the weather!), and on the other hand, it’s full of algae and stones. So I have to be very conscious about every step I take, in order not to fall and not to hurt myself. I consider it a balance and mindfulness test. It’s actually fun, after the initial anxiety phase is over.

My view on the water, which looks more scary than it actually is – this dark part is just normal sea algae, it’s not depth.

See this dried algae on the ground? Walking on this becomes your first choice (due to the softness of it), instead of walking on the stones you can see in the water.

Eventually, I find this couple walking behind me in the water. I am so relieved! It means that I am not doing something entirely crazy and that there will be a way out of here. I still have many kilometers to walk after all. And I am tired. And the sun is hot, and I don’t want to get sunburned.

They walk so fast, and I think damn, they must have these water shoes on. I get afraid, wondering if it’s realistic to reach my destination on my bare feet like that. But as they approach me, I realize they walk barefoot, too. I talk to them shortly, asking them whether they know if I can find a beach soon. The man tells me that there is no beach, but that I will find an exit through the bushes. I tell them they seem to be used to this path, to which they smile. Off they go, and I take care to follow them soon enough, as their presence comforts me. I still can’t believe this is happening, but I am so glad to be going through an experience I shall definitely not forget soon.

Eventually, with a big sense of relief I reach the escape. I feel such relief, and at the same time a sense of achievement that makes me very happy. I decide to take a break under a tree where the escape is. Overall, I had walked 1,3 km in that water.

Thank the mastermind inventor for trouser extensions you can just unzip

I crave a coffee. And I decide to give my portable stove and the gas can another try. I can turn them on easier this time – success! But of course, as I expected, now I get it confirmed that the bowl I bought to heat water in is not made for heating (check day 1 to understand why this was no clear). It is plastic after all. :'(

So, once again…

I have to still my craving with this espresso chocolate – still yum!

I sit there for about half an hour. I love the sun reflecting off the water and I keep thinking how I would have been feeling in heaven, if I wouldn’t be so tired and if I wouldn’t have to leave again soon. So I try to close my eyes and feel in heaven for a bit.

I close my eyes and I listen to my surrounding, I observe the way I feel, I am just in the moment – the trick being not to judge anything that is happening. Not to judge my thoughts, the things I hear or the things I feel. In a way I am doing Vipassana Meditation, but I wouldn’t want to label anything. It’s something anyone can do. It feels liberating, because for just a few minutes you don’t feel stuck with any bad feeling or with the feeling that you’re obliged to do something about your situation. For a while, things are just the way they are and you are watching them happen within you and around you. A state of ultimate Zen I tell you!

So after experiencing my Zen, I get up to keep walking. I have to walk over a field that seems like many people have already walked over. You’re not allowed to walk over fields, but I just do it. There is not a single person to see anywhere anyway. Part of the field is filled with red plants that are beautiful.

In a way, they look a bit like desert plants or something. I want to stay longer and admire them longer and feel them, but I have to keep walking.

Here you can see how I have to adjust my path after realizing that there is no sand to walk on. From the beach, I walk into the light green area, where the fields are and then manage my way from there.

The sun is really strong. Again, I express my inner gratitude and relief over having bought this black cap.

I do slowly realize how much energy walking through the water had taken from me. Every part of me is tired, especially my left knee. But I gotta keep walking. Something about the pain feels good (please hear me out?), because it keeps me focused on my physical feeling, instead of stressful thoughts in my mind that sadly won’t have mercy on me despite all the beauty surrounding me. And so I feel into my knee, embracing the pain with every step I take that gets me closer to my destination.

I cherish little findings that pass me on the way and I stop every few minutes, taking all the scenery in.

Little findings like this super-dry skeleton of a leaf

I had never seen something like this in my life

I pass through little villages, one of which is awkwardly empty. Many of the houses are entirely closed down.

And then there is this blank house with the tree shadow falling on it so nicely

I walk and walk, exhausted as fuck. At some point, I walk down a street and look to the horizon on my left. I realize that I had just walked down that whole street I see in the horizon, the one that has trees on its sides.

And in the far distance I see the water I had to walk through…

I spot a mailman in the near distance, I pass him and keep walking. A few minutes later, I see him pulling over in front of me again, delivering more mail. I keep walking. A few minutes later, he pulls over behind me. So funnily, I have the same pace as the mailman. I am not that slow.

I keep looking at the map every two minutes it feels. Am I close yet? I am hungry and tired and my knee hurts. Although only 5 km are left, it feels like an endlessly long way. It’s also exhausting to keep walking parallel to a street. The sound of the cars gets very exhausting after a while, even though you don’t hear a single honk. Just them driving over the asphalt so fast is stressful in itself. So when I reach the entrance of Neubukow, I am left with a choice…

This is for you to see how long I had to walk parallel to a street. That’s about 3,5 km.

My choice is whether I want to keep walking along the street – here it would be Buschmühler Chaussee – or if I want to change to the hiking path in the green, called Jakobsweg. I had originally planned to walk on that hiking path so I decide to go for it, although my feeling tells me the street is safer.

And I should have listened to my feeling. -.-
Because the hiking path is beautiful and all, but it turns out quite steep and full of tiny obstacles. And I am tired.

Still, I am happy to be surrounded by trees and a stream. The air is also getting chilly, now that the sun is not shining on me anymore. I take some photos… taking breaks every ten minutes.

This is what it basically looks like walking through that tiny forest.

There are many little games made out of wood, like this wooden xylophone. Yes, I tried it out… :)

Another game, where you can guess what tree it is judging from the bark. No, I did not have time for that one.

It’s funny. Passing this part of the path here, I get a strange feeling. Only looking back, I realize why. It’s because there is no fence. Why? The fence is broken. Judging by the way it looks, someone fell on that fence, falling down that hill… funny that my subconscious picked the creepy feeling up, without me really realizing why.

The sight of this windmill gives me incredible relief. It means I am almost there!

And so, I am finally in Neubukow. I already like the way the houses look and take a few photos.

And I have less than a km to walk… 800 meters… 500… 200… my knee, we almost made it, just stay strong!

And I do. I arrive at a hotel that looks exactly the way I expected (I was too tired to make a photo of the hotel) – with a restaurant below. I go in, spot a tiny fountain (yes, inside, but it’s kind of a portable fountain) and a counter with many flyers and whatnot. I do not spot a single person though. I also do not see a cash register or anything, so I must be standing at the wrong place.

I open the door to the restaurant area on the left, walk in and spot a lady with long black hair, dressed a bit in a rock ‘n’ roll style, drying beer glasses. I ask her where the check-in is and she tells me to come to her. She’s wearing a mask, above which her incredibly blue eyes really strike me. I guess she’s wearing colored lenses. A young man appears, also in a bit of a rock ‘n’ roll style, and the lady leads me to my room. The stairs are incredibly steep and tiny, and there is so much red everywhere. She guides me through the little room, letting me know I can go to her if I need anything. She’s nice.

Now I cannot believe I am actually in my room. I made it, dammit! With my swollen knee and my tired feet and my sun-kissed skin. I sit down, unsure what to do next, as I am tired and hungry. Do I take a break, then go eat? Do I take a shower first?

I check Google Maps and find that there is an Asian restaurant just 3 minutes away. I walk there, order some rice with vegetables and peanut butter sauce and then impulsively order a second meal, while they are cooking my ordered meal. I am so hungry and can imagine eating anything right now. I order noodles with vegetables. And then I walk back.

One last look at the nice view, loving the way the sun sets… and the panorama perspective I have on this tiny city center. And then I take a long warm shower, change into my comfy clothes, stretch a bit and eat, eat, eat. Tucking myself under the cover… waiting for the day to end, hungry for my next journey.

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

Trip stats:
20,9 km – 5 hrs 4 minutes (in motion) – 4,1 km (average speed)

If you’re interested to see the path I walked on komoot, follow this link:
https://www.komoot.de/tour/264151291

Day 5 of “I am doing this” – Waren – Kühlungsborn – Rerik

October 1, 2020October 5, 2020soleil Leave a comment

My route today from Kühlungsborn to Rerik

It’s a sunny day again, as I open my eyes and see the sun warming up the walls around me. Although I actually wake up early on my own, I still take it a bit too easy packing everything up, doing yoga, etc. that I end up going to breakfast at 8 AM after all, although having set my mind to be there earlier (like the hotel worker yesterday told me I could do). One last glance at the sunshine on the wall makes me say goodbye to that place happily.

Rushing down to the breakfast hall, I see an unknown number calling me. My phone analyzes the number code to be coming from Waren, the city I am in.

I am greeted by the hotel guy in black with one word: “Verschlafen?” (Overslept?)
While laughing, I tell him that I just took too much time packing things up.

“I thought we’re having breakfast together”, he tells me. Oh yeah, I probably assumed right. He was the one calling me, wasn’t he? I ask him if he had just called me. “Yeah, I wanted to wake you up, in case you overslept.”

I thank him nicely and sweetly, as I can do so well, while silently kind of being glad that I am late, as “having breakfast together” would’ve probably just been very awkward. Maybe also nice, but also awkward. I still say “well, I am still here” to which he answers that he slowly has to start working now.

Ah well. I ask him if I may check out first, and then have breakfast, so I can eat with more ease, and he agrees without any hesitation. Yay, I’m free. This “down-to-the-minute” planning had been causing me anxiety since yesterday, in an inner monologue that goes something like this:

What if they don’t let me check out before breakfast?
Isn’t that my right? How would I argue with them, if they don’t let me?
If they really don’t let me, I can probably have breakfast in ten minutes, check out fast and still make it to the train, which is literally 3 minutes away by foot. But what if someone else is waiting before me and taking too much time? Can I push myself forward?

I am definitely an over-thinker, as they say. Back then, in school, I used to over-think friendships, minor daily incidents, but now I over-think everyday interactions with authorities, institutions, etc. What a pain. Definitely gotta work on that.

Aaaanyways, I have a nice breakfast, I head out, the hotel guy nicely accompanies me to the hotel door, I wish him all well, and I head to the train. And I still arrive like 7 minutes earlier. Why all this anxiety?

I use the time I have to calm down a bit, to enjoy the chilly morning and the emptiness of the platform. In Berlin, an empty platform is quite the exception.

On Platform 1 in Waren Hbf, waiting for my train to Rostock Hbf.

I loved the mix of my reflection, that sign hanging there, the extremely shabby window and the plant pots inside. Aesthetically it speaks to me.

The train arrives on time. 8:30 AM. I get in, it’s very empty, and I’m looking forward to the day. Plan is to get out in Rostock’s central station, take a bus to Kühlungsborn and start walking from there to Rerik.

For anyone who’s not familiar with Germany’s map: This is the day I reach the Baltic Sea! All these mentioned cities lie along the Baltic Sea. It’s the primary inspiration for the route of this trip.

Once I arrive in Rostock, another form of anxiety emerges. (In the end, it all turns out juuust fine.) The background to my anxiety: due to Corona, you can’t buy tickets in the buses in Berlin anymore, so as not to be a danger to the driver’s health. I didn’t know what the rules are in Rostock, so I was worried. There seems to be no ticket machine anywhere, and I am not sure if I can buy the ticket from the bus driver. Well, let’s just see.

I get myself a coffee and wait for the bus at the station.

There were a lot of construction works at Rostock ZOB

I really love shabby bus stations. I wish I could make a photo series about them.

People start to gather around me, more and more with every passing minute. I see that they all have tickets in their hands. Where’d you get them?!

Finally, the bus comes. It’s about ten minutes late. It looks comfy. I wait at the end of the line, see everyone show their ticket to the driver, and then I get in. With my cute voice I ask:
“Can’t one buy tickets here?”

The driver mumbles “Not right now, the machine is broken, that’s why it took so long”, as my heart keeps skipping beats, but then he waves with his hand for me to just go in. I hesitate, as I’m sure I misunderstood, but he waves again. WOAH! I walk in. And I get my trip for free. Isn’t that awesome?

I feel some moments of euphoria. Everything worked fine, the bus is empty, I am getting to Kühlungsborn, it’s all good. I watch scenes of the city pass me by.

The bus ride is quite an experience. Some people are sitting without any masks, and some people don’t cover their nose. Ugh, at least they’re sitting at a distance. One woman opens a window to get some fresh air in (finally!), and the people sitting in the back already complain, because it’s too windy. They have a short discussion about Corona, etc. but the window stays closed in the end. Soon enough, the bus gets fuller and fuller. Every seat is taken, also the one next to me, and everyone is standing very tightly together. Not to mention, again: some people not wearing their masks properly, and some not wearing masks at all. I keep thinking Corona does not exist in that bus apparently.

Thankfully, I’m sitting at a window seat, and I don’t have to play human Tetris (like someone calls it so nicely) every time someone needs to get off the bus. The bus is so full, it’s indescribable. Adding to that, it doesn’t show each station on a screen or anything. Everyone has to know for themselves when to get off. Okay.

I have Google Maps on on the side, playing a mix of looking at the moving blue dot representing me, and the changing surroundings, trying to catch the name of every station we pass. By the time we reach Kühlungsborn West, where I need to get off, the bus is already half empty again, to my luck.

Having coffee on an empty stomach was not a good idea, as I desperately need to use the bathroom. Luckily, a nice gentleman from a bar/restaurant/café next to the stop allows me to use the bathroom, since it’s still calm enough. I freshen up and feel ready for this day, glad that everything has worked so well already.

One of my first views, reaching the beach, in Kühlungsborn

Before I start my long walk, I stop at a Lidl supermarket, getting some snacks and a cold packaged coffee for the road. Some people smile at me, which I find nice. I’m all set for walking now.

Some strange amusement park built up on the beach promenade. As soon as I passed by it, I wanted to get away. It was loud, corny and ugly.

A few minutes into my route, I realize the first challenge that shall be facing me. Komoot shows that there is a path along the beach, but in truth, it’s sand. The promenade ends at some point, and so I have to continue walking on the sand. As nice as that can be, it’s not so efficient, when you still have 10+ km to walk. Still, I find no other option, so I just do it.

As hard as it was to walk on the sand, seeing the beach on the side was always a beautiful feeling.

The path keeps changing between sand, promenade and natural paths. As much as I enjoy it, I am seriously suffering from the direct sun. Again, I bitch about myself leaving my cap in Berlin and decide to seriously buy one as soon as I’m in Rerik. I don’t want to get sunburned so I apply sunscreen every hour. My face gets white as a zombie, but I have to not care.

One of many beautiful paths that go through this endless amount of grass around you

A plane advertisement for Lübzer, a brand of beer. Instead of complaining to myself that they’re so noisy, I make a photo.

I liked seeing that extremely eye-catching pink umbrella in the very far distance

That photo between the grass dunes shows the last part of the path, before I have to walk along the water / in the sand for what feels like ages. Although it’s visually beautiful, it feels extremely exhausting on the long run, especially with the sun shining in my face all the time. I need a break, so I sit on the sand with my back to the sun and eat up a sandwich I got. Thankfully, I am not doing this trip in the middle of the summer, so the sun is only shining in an angle, making the sunlight more bearable.

Cooling my feet in the water every once in a while is a must

Despite my exhaustion, I appreciate the view every second

At some point, I pass another stream, flowing into the water. As I walk through it, I realize how warm the water of the stream is compared to that of the sea.

Finally, I reach a path in the green again. I am incredibly relieved.

I panic at the sight of this, but then I see people crossing this over and over again. Okay. Better for me!

Eventually, I reach a big rest area and with that comes a big sense of relief. It also comes with a beautiful view.

A man swimming and doing strange moves all the time, funny to watch

A strange man, a cool old woman and a cool view

My cold break coffee that was not so cold anymore

Walking further, the path keeps changing between trees and open landscapes. I pass by several fields again, just like I did the last days. All the time, you are facing a beautiful view, looking from a high point down to the sea. According to komoot, it’s an elevation of 20 m above seawater. Not little.

The path is quite well-visited. It doesn’t feel bad, because the more people you see, the more it means that a city or village is nearby. And the more they get, the closer you are. So I use it as a kind of self-comforting, to keep seeing people.

At some point, a tiny funny incident occurs. It’s not really an incident. I merely see a couple with a dog, the man blocking the path, bowing down feeding his dog from between his legs. In other words, I see his butt, as he feeds the dog, of course with clothes on and all. As I get closer and he hears my footsteps, he says with a smile “oh, that must not be a nice sight! Sorry!” and he gets out of the way. As stupid an incident as that might be, it really lifts you up on such a trip, when you’ve gone hours without speaking to anyone and are entirely immersed in your thoughts. I’m really thankful for such funny minor incidents.

Soon, I’m walking along another field… at least I can walk next to some tress, which provide me with some shade.

A beautiful green island in the midst of an endless desert

As I attempt to take this panorama the first time, a woman with two little dogs comes from the distance. One dog starts barking at me for no reason. She tells him to stop. As she comes closer, I say “he doesn’t like the camera much, does he?” She, in a quite funny dark tone says: “yeah, I don’t know what’s with her, I thought she’s barking at another dog, but then I see there’s nothing. As they say… “große Klappe, nichts dahinter””, and she rolls her eyes. She really makes me laugh. What she says kind of translates to: “a big cakehole, but nothing proper to say”

Again, uplifted, I laugh out loud. And I attempt another panorama shot, which works this time (the one you see up there, with the woman on the left side, having passed me).

I loved the silhouettes against the strongly lit sky

On and on I walk, sometimes listening to music, sometimes not… enjoying the trees and the view, counting minutes and steps to the destination. The long walk through the sand, in direct sun, has really exhausted me.

It feels like I make breaks at every chance that occurs to me. I am so tired. Today is the shortest distance, but it is by far the most exhausting one. Soon enough, I finally reach Rerik…

Luckily, I find a shop that sells hats and beach stuff at the very beginning! Wow, I am overwhelmed at how well this works. I choose a black cap made of linen, which even covers your neck. The guy is also quite sweet. A black-haired young man with Asian features sits at the cashier’s and works on a very cool drawing, as he talks to me. When I ask him, if I can pay with a card, he says he’s sorry… no card here… “there is not so much happening here…” with a bowed smile. I tell him I’m familiar with that from Berlin too, where there is a lot happening, and still no card payment possible, so no worries. He turns down the price of 12,90 euros to 12 euros for me. So sweet! He wishes me a nice time in Rerik, and I tell him it’s my first time here and keep going.

Finally, I reach the guesthouse and am led to my room. The man at the desk is also sweet and quite funny. At some point he coughs strongly and says in between “don’t worry… no Corona… just smoker’s lung” I laugh and tell him I’m familiar with that, and he laughs. It makes me sound like I’m the one who smokes a lot, when I was referring to other smokers in my life, but who cares. It makes us both laugh.

A glimpse of my room – very comfy and cute

After checking into my room and taking a shower, I head out to eat. I am so exhausted.

Guesthouse (pension) “Kiek in” since 1992 there for you! They’re as old as me!

I am starving. I walk to the harbor, where I catch a glimpse of the sunset reflecting in the water. It’s an idyllic view, just as expected.

I end my day with a Flammkuchen (a “French Pizza” or “tarte flambee”) at a restaurant I’ve been to last year. Funnily, even the same waiter still works there.

Afterwards, I spoil myself with a Nutella crèpe and head home with a happy full stomach. The moon is just as beautiful as the setting sun.

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

Trip stats:
13,3 km – 3 hrs 4 minutes (in motion) – 4,3 km (average speed)

If you’re interested to see the path I walked on komoot, follow this link:
https://www.komoot.de/tour/263614178

Walking with Wolves

Personal Visually Engaging Stories About Hiking

Author soleil

Day 2 of “I am doing this again” – Kiel > Altenholz

Day 1 of “I am doing this again” – Berlin > Kiel

Part 1 – The Train Tales

Part 2 – A Messy Greeting

Part 3 – Kiel, Show Me Your Secrets

The First Snow (07.04.2021)

Autumn, I have hereby embraced you.

1. Grünau (31.10.2020)

2. Between Große Krampe and Seddinsee (14.11.2020 + 15.11.2020)

3. Löcknitztal Nature Reserve (08.11.2020)

4. Grunewald (01.11.2020)

Day 8 of “I am doing this” – Poel (Kirchdorf) – Timmerndorf Strand – Wismar

Day 7 of “I am doing this” – Neubukow – Insel Poel

Day 6 of “I am doing this” – Rerik – Neubukow

Day 5 of “I am doing this” – Waren – Kühlungsborn – Rerik

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Part 1 – The Train Tales

Part 2 – A Messy Greeting

Part 3 – Kiel, Show Me Your Secrets

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1. Grünau (31.10.2020)

2. Between Große Krampe and Seddinsee (14.11.2020 + 15.11.2020)

3. Löcknitztal Nature Reserve (08.11.2020)

4. Grunewald (01.11.2020)

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