“And Then Sweden Happened” – 8 Days of Dreaming, Walking & Wandering in Sweden (Day 2)

^ 🎧 Now also available as audio! For the audio version, play the track above.

🙋🏻‍♀️ Hi everyone and welcome to a new post about my Sweden hike in September 2025!

Today’s post is about day two of my hike — a day with its fair share of challenges and a couple of mental thunderstorms. ⛈️ It’s not the brightest chapter of the hike, but it was part of the journey, and it deserves to be shared honestly.

So sit back, enjoy, relax and feel free to laugh at my chaos. 😁

Would you prefer to read this post in Egyptian Arabic? Then click here.

(Estimated read time: 35 minutes)


September 20, 2025 – Day 2
(Hike from Järna to Gnesta)

🍃 Part I – Greeted By Morning Dew, Warmed Up By A Golden Fog

05:30 AM. A gentle “By The Seaside” ringtone tries to nudge me awake – to no avail. Unless there’s an actual sea right outside my window, it won’t do the trick. Snooze.

05:39 AM. Second try. With one eye open, I look around me. It’s still dark, and it’s cold. I can’t imagine getting out from under these incredibly cozy blankets. Snooze.

This battle goes on for roughly another twenty minutes, until at 06:00 AM, luckily, I once again summon the question that hits the right nerve at the right time: Do you really want to hike 25 kilometers today without a proper breakfast and morning stretch? And do you want to miss your train? Clock’s ticking… Okay, okay! I’m up.

I push myself upright and sleepily walk to the window, curious to catch a glimpse of what I assume must be a beautiful dawn scene. But as soon as I open the blinds, I see nothing but an incredibly dew-filled window pane showing a blurry, dark terrace beyond it. I can also vaguely spot a couple of really big spiders floating in the corners. Mmm… let’s just keep the blinds closed for now, shall we?

A hot cup of coffee and warm porridge set the tone right for my usual morning stretches. I don’t have much time, so I multitask my way through getting dressed, stretching some more, tidying up, and packing everything as neatly and efficiently as my 6:00 AM brain can manage – preparing for the train ride and the long hike ahead.

Once finished, I calmly go over today’s plan in my mind: in a few minutes, I’ll walk to Trelleborg Central Station to take the first train to Malmö, then the second train to Södertälje, and finally a third one to Järna. From Järna, I’ll start a 25 kilometer hike all the way to a forest cabin in Gnesta. Intense, I know. But I sure am thrilled about the adventure awaiting me!

I open the blinds again – now revealing a lighter, though still incredibly blurry scene. I then swing my backpack onto my shoulders, slip into my shoes and say goodbye to my little sanctuary for this short night.

06:35 AM. I hear my hosts’ dog faintly bark as I leave the apartment. So friendly…

But as soon as I step onto the street, the place already feels miles away. It’s incredibly quiet, filled with that magical morning freshness, just as the light-blue sky begins to playfully turn pinkish. I take a deep breath, inhaling the cool, humid air, feeling relieved and happy to be here.

The streets give off a bit of an American Beauty vibe – you know, the movie. Cute houses, each with its own well-kept garden. Long street. Quiet, peaceful. Trees lining up along the pavement.

07:13 AM. A few unplanned detours and small panic moments later, I finally reach the station. Google Maps had guided me through streets that are actually closed off for construction, forcing me to jog my way through longer routes just to make it on time. But once there, I realize I still have seven full minutes to spare. Win!

I get enough time to make a photo showing a beautiful sunrise scene playfully reflecting off the trains.

Quick pre-boarding platform snapshot
(my train’s on the right)

07:20 AM. The train leaves right on time, with me sitting in a comfy corner seat. Relief washes over me as I realize I’ve made it. I enjoy the emptiness and calm around me – it’s just me and a couple of other passengers.

I lean back and watch scenes of vast, golden fields slide by, embraced by morning fog and glorious sunshine, offering me a quiet kind of comfort.

I keep going over today’s plan in my head, while double-checking the train tickets on my phone. The conductor appears within the first few minutes, requesting to see the first one of them. I’m comforted by his smile and polite tack (“thank you” in Swedish) – a small confirmation that I’ve got the correct ticket. Now I can relax a little.

🍃 Part II – In Transit, In Thought

07:52 AM. Thirty-two minutes later, we reach Malmö, and I find myself in a station that immediately confirms I’ve entered a big city. I follow a few passengers up the escalator, before stepping into a current of hundreds of people through the upstairs halls.

Knowing I won’t have much time to stop at a supermarket for water later on in Järna, I head into the first service store I spot and impulsively buy three bottles of water and a banana. You can’t have too much water!

Five minutes later, I’m inside the train to Södertälje, happily finding my reserved seat right away. I get cozy, greet the Swedish ad that will stare me into the face for the next five hours, and watch the platform drift away, as we begin our journey on time at 08:07 AM.

My seat for the next five hours

The mood on the train is quiet and at ease – everyone’s either sleeping or reading. As I’m now fully awake, I take a moment to become mindful of my surroundings: a young man in the four-seater next to me is immersed in a book, shoes off, legs stretched comfortably across from him. In front of me, a sweet-looking couple leans their heads together; a few minutes later, the woman spots the empty seats and moves to lie down there, continuing her nap. Sweet.

The sun pours gently through the window, soft and golden, adding to the warmth of it all. I stretch my own legs across the seat beside me (no seat neighbor, yay!) and put on my beloved audiobook The Disappearance of the Universe by Gary Renard, filling the air with its mind-opening spiritual-philosophical musings. With amusement about the time and place I find myself in right now, I immerse myself in thoughts about the universe, hugged by this quiet morning between strangers. I sink into a kind of meditative stillness, recharging my energies – at least until a hundred new passengers board the train a few stations later.

11:15 AM. The steady motion of the train begins to make me feel a little dizzy, so I decide to get up and walk to the bistro in search of grounding – and coffee. A few wagons, some hallway balancing acts, and a queue of ten customers squeezed into a one-meter-wide corridor later, I return with a hummus wrap and a steaming cup of coffee, both of which I enjoy gratefully back at my seat. Outside, the sun has disappeared and the sky has turned hazy, which is a bit of a bummer for my hike… but I stay optimistic. The forecast promised clearer skies later. Little do I know that will be the least of my worries in just a few hours.

12:12 PM. An announcement mumbles something in Swedish, and it’s by pure luck that I catch the word Södertälje. How is it possible that I almost missed my stop? Oh, dear…

Hastily, I pack everything up in the remaining three minutes — headphones, hummus wrap, the three impulsively bought water bottles, banana — and put on my jackets in the planned order. I can do this!

At 12:15 PM, I’m standing on the platform in Södertälje, relieved. I take a deep breath, before walking off to find the next train.

Arriving in Södertälje Syd

🍃 Part III – The Big Slow Beginning

The station is small, with just a few people scattered around – and a somewhat sleepy vibe to it. Finding the next platform turns out to be trickier than expected. The signs don’t help, and the app doesn’t show which platform my train to Järna departs from. None of the screens display the train number I’m seeing on the app either. Hmm. Am I at the wrong station?

I look around, my eyes scanning my surroundings for someone I can ask, but there’s no one particularly approachable – and no information desk, just another service store. Two men glance at me with a smirk, which I take as my cue to just go anywhere else but stay here.

Finally, with great relief, I spot a small hidden sign at the far end of the station that says Pendeltåg (commuter train) – exactly what I’ve been looking for! I follow it down a long hallway, then an even longer escalator that carries me to a hidden open-air platform. This must be it. And the train won’t arrive for another twenty-eight minutes. Cool.

Platform in Södertälje

For a moment I consider walking instead – it is just one stop after all. But a quick look at Komoot confirms it’s a definite NOPE. It’s a four kilometer walk. An hour on foot. Not worth it. At least not prior to the 25 kilometers awaiting me… And so I stay and practice patience.

Once seated, I let the pre-hike calmness settle over me, taking in the small sounds that greet me – the rustling of leaves in the wind, the occasional announcement echoing through the platform, the voice of the only other passenger murmuring on the phone. I mentally revise today’s route, sending a quiet wish that it won’t be as difficult a route as I fear it will be.

But a demanding one it shall be — 25 kilometers with around 400 meters of elevation — and what I hadn’t realized before booking all my accommodations and trains: the sun now sets at 7:00 PM. Back in Germany, hiking in early September, I’d had a full extra hour of light. That difference might seem small, but today, it could make things… well, adventurous. Let’s just call it that.

My view while I mentally revise today’s route

01:01 PM. The announcement voice repeats for the fourth time that the train is about to arrive — it’s been saying so every minute for the past four minutes. At 01:02, it finally does.

I step in and notice with happiness that the wagon is empty, with plenty of space. Even though it’s just a seven-minute ride, I will take any rest I can get before the hike. I’ve managed to attach my backpack in juuust the most comfortable way I could figure out, but it’s still heavy. I find a seat near the door and let the bag rest on the seat beside me.

Luckily the train’s empty

01:09 PM. Järna. Finally! How long did it take me to get here again? A day and a half, if I count yesterday’s journey. And now I’m here. I take a deep breath in, as I take the first steps onto the platform, looking for the stairs. My navigation app points to an exit on the right, up a steep set of stairs. Ugh! Stairs already? I spot a ramp on the opposite side and decide to walk toward it, hoping it’ll lead me around somehow — but no.

I find myself under a heavy grey sky, next to a street, a bus stop, a few small houses, and immediately realize that I’ll have to walk back. The ramp leads nowhere useful; the only way to the other side — the one the stairs would’ve taken me to — is up a busy, elevated road, and then across, costing me a good 500 meters of effort. No way around going back and taking the stairs. Still, I can’t help but wonder what people in wheelchairs do here. That’s a cruel detour to have to take.

I spot a pair of teenage girls watch me curiously, while I think. It must be my hiking poles… or my braids… or my backpack… or just EVERYTHING mixed with my clueless face, I think to myself with an inner laugh. What’s up with this cluelessness anyway? I ask myself. I do have a plan after all, but a small part of me feels reluctant to begin — that familiar pre-hike unease.

I realize I need some grounding before I start. I walk toward a nearby bench, drop my backpack, unclip the poles, take a sip of water, and peel off my fleece jacket — the humidity is rising, and I’ll be sweating soon enough. I put my phone on silent, so as not to be disturbed.

A few deep breaths in and out, and it’s definitely time to move. It’s already 1:15 PM. I pull myself together, swing my backpack onto my shoulders again, and head toward the stairs I’d been trying to avoid.

My pre-hike grounding spot

🍃 Part IV – Finding Rhythm Amongst Mental Battles

As soon as I take my first steps, the outskirts-industrial vibe clings to me: wide streets, spacious grey pavements, and monotonous bland commercial buildings with bad typography. I decide this is the perfect chance to practice using my hiking poles — my very first attempt. Clumsily, I try to balance being overly self-conscious and out-of-place with finding a rhythm that works… but I fail spectacularly.

I try to find inspiration and support in the sight of a little senior woman walking towards me, with poles in her hand. She moves effortlessly, yet she holds the tips at ear level, which makes… no sense to me at all. I notice I’ve got no “theoretical” clue on how to approach this, should’ve watched a YouTube video, and decide to just stash the poles away for now and try again later. I can’t afford to let anything slow me down now, and it’s hard enough with the constant stream of cars rushing by.

Around a kilometer and a half later, Komoot guides me to a hidden left entry – and just like that, I finally step onto the Sörmlandsleden. I can now say my hike has officially started!

Entry into Sörmlandsleden

The Sörmlandsleden spans rougly 1,000 kilometers of hiking trails across Södermanland, south of Stockholm, weaving through nature reserves, cultural sites, and historical monuments. The section I’m on leads mainly through untouched greenery.

Soon enough, I find myself gliding over long, lush-green grass, surrounded by thousands of trees. The air smells fresh and humid. And funnily enough… like mushrooms. Intensely so. Curiously, I take a deep breath in, smiling at the novelty of this experience. And as the elevation rises, I find my hands intuitively reach for the poles. Indeed, in this entirely different setting, I can figure out how to use them. While naturally leaning forward on the incline, they offer support just when I need it, and to my big relief, I notice it’s actually helping a lot!

A few steps later, I encounter a group of four young men lounging on the grass at the edge of the path, one of them half-leaning into it. Awkward… I prepare a friendly hi, but they don’t give me any attention and remain immersed in their conversation. Oh well, probably for the best.

I walk further, noticing the trail is changing: stoney ground, much of which is covered in thick moss, surrounded by hundreds of trees. And the mushroom smell gets even more intense. The air feels more humid now, reminding me to thank my past self for following my intuition and taking off my jacket. I take a moment to pause and let my eyes wander over the fresh green.

One of many gigantic mushrooms I’ve spotted

Moments later, as I shortly stop over a bridge, I hear human voices. I look back and spot the same group of young men catch up to me. Am I that slow?! I try to quicken my pace, but they are still much faster. As I’ll just be in their way, I just let them pass me, flashing them with as confident a smile as I can muster. They thank me briefly and move on. Damn, they really are fast! And they’re not even using hiking poles… impressive, but also slightly intimidating.

The bridge
View from the bridge

My worry grows, as I check Komoot after what feels like an hour of walking. Expecting five kilometers, I see I’m only at 3.25. With still over twenty kilometers remaining! The reality, that this will be much more difficult than I expected, hits. Elevated ground slows progress much more than I’m used to.

However, I remind myself to stay focused and disciplined: take fewer photos, shorter breaks, regulate your pace and most importantly – don’t doubt too much.

The route awaiting me after the bridge

However, the “don’t doubt too much” part proves to be the most challenging. My mind takes this as an invitation to launch a relentless assault of doubt, spamming me with thoughts like:
“This will never work. What were you thinking?”
“This is so exhausting. You’re not well-rested and your backpack is so heavy. Poor planning!”
“Wasn’this supposed to be this fun, amazing experience you’ve been planning for months? Doesn’t look fun to me…”
And the worst one of all: “What if you don’t make it? What if you have to spend the night in the forest?”

Whenever I notice that pattern of useless thoughts, I take a moment to stop and take in my surroundings, letting the silence comfort me. Sometimes it works well, sometimes not so much.

2:40 PM. At 4.5 kilometers, I take a 15-minute break to give myself some damage-control self-talk. I’m familiar with such moods, but aware that the difficult terrain makes this one extra tricky. I remind myself: nobody forced me to go on this hike — this was my decision. Even if it turns out to only be an unpleasant experience, it’s still an experience I chose. I remind myself it’s okay if this day turns out badly, and that every challenge is valuable. And there’s still time. I close my eyes and take in the perfect silence. There is no sound but my breath.

A few shoulder stretches and a couple of energizing snacks later, I feel a little steadier. But I know the challenge won’t vanish; keeping this mindset will require work for the hours ahead.

🍃 Part V – Jazz And A High Chance of Cloudy Thoughts

3:00 PM. Today is clearly not a day to embrace silence – a realization that hits me while my thoughts continue to provide a rough symphony to my steps. I seek comfort in my Spotify daylist, which decides it’s time to bless me with some jazz. SURE! I’ll take anything.

Panoramic view of my terrain

With music coming out the pocket of my trouser, I continue navigating the Sörmlandsleden, following the faint voice of Komoot that only works sporadically. The trail winds through trees, orange markings guiding me, moss-covered stones underfoot, challenging every step.

The route is marked by orange circles around tree bark

Using the hiking poles has become intuitive and automatic by now. I find comfort in the support they provide and silently thank my past self for buying the poles at the last minute, one day before leaving. While reviewing everything, I realized with a face-palm that I forgot to buy hiking poles. In the comfort of my home, exhausted from the workweek, that little voice in my head almost won: “Ah, let’s just risk it.” Luckily, I didn’t take that risk. I still shudder at the idea that I’d be climbing up this rocky terrain without the poles. My knees would’ve rebelled immediately.

Get what I mean by rocky terrain?

Every 300 meters or so, I take a short five-minute break to lay down the backpack, rest my shoulders, eat some nuts. I put on a timer, so as not to lose track of my strict schedule. I feel tired, and the situation is frustrating. The time pressure prevents me from slowing down and enjoying my surroundings or enjoying a proper meal. But the most frustrating thing: I’m still too slow for my actual plan. The humid, slightly windy air strains my breathing, but there’s no choice but to continue onward. And so I do, trying to find solace in the beautiful surrounding.

Surrounded by thousands of trees
Yes, I did walk in the wrong direction at first…

Every once in a while, I find a pair of wooden boards laid over puddles (or sometimes “mini-swamp” is more like it). A small aid to help hikers cross over without getting wet. The boards, however, eaten by water and humidity, are soft and unstable, usually only one at a time sturdy enough to cross. I balance carefully, knees shaking under the weight of my backpack, but making it through. Thank you, yoga mornings – at least a small win. But adrenaline spikes anyway.

One example of wooden boards spanned over the water
Water to cross over
This chunk of soil, attached to a fallen tree,
tricked me into believing it’s a bear from the distance at least five times

3:54 PM. Extremely freaking exhausted, I claim a longer break atop another stoney hill. With a big sigh, I collapse onto my backpack, allowing my body to rest fully. With a metal fence on my left, and endless trees, moss and stone on my right, I stare into the sky. Breathe. Slow, heavy breaths. Yes, I’m slower than expected, but I’ll somehow make it.

My break spot
View through the fence

To my surprise, the clouds part and the sun emerges gently. Even now, in such a moment of exhaustion, this simple sight comforts me and gives me a small boost of energy. I look forward to capturing the trees bathed in light, though all my body can think of right now is: WARM BED. MASSAGE. NEVER DO THIS TO ME AGAIN.

Reluctantly, I strap the backpack back on, push myself upright, and step forward. Knees in pain, lungs heavy, I continue the hike, looking past the protest of my body toward the trail ahead.

🍃 Part VI – That Forest Might Be Comfortable For The Night, No?

05:00 PM. The sun lights up the forest in golden hues, comforting me slightly, reminding me to look ahead and keep believing I’ll make it. Despite the exhaustion through my legs and the slow crawl of a bad mood, I still find myself stopping every so often to take in the beautiful scenery around me – a few short breaths of calm between all that effort. In the end, why am I doing this if I don’t give myself this chance? I ask myself, standing in the middle of a heathland beneath a giant transmission tower that hums quietly above me.

A few steps later, a wide puddle of water interrupts the path. Damn. No wooden boards to cross it, no way around. I decide to balance my way along the stones at the edge of it. It looks doable. I tell myself: you can do this, as long as there’s something solid to step on. Carefully, I start inching forward, holding onto the stones, pretending to be some spontaneous climber version of myself. It works — until it doesn’t. The walkable stones suddenly disappear, and I spot a small mound of soil in the puddle that looks firm enough. I take the leap, swing my left foot onto it, and immediately realize: that was a mistake. The ground sinks beneath me. My foot plunges into the muddy softness. Oh no.

Post-accident documentation of the accident :D

Luckily, my shoes are water-resistant enough that my socks stay mostly dry. Still, the incident gives a heavy blow to my mood. I try to clean off the shoe with a tissue, but my patience is wearing thin. Eleven kilometers down, fifteen still ahead. Sigh.

Once the worst of the mud is removed, I move on. The forest thickens around me again and moss covers every stone. Golden-greenish colors surround me, as the sun shines through the trees. Then, in the distance — I suddenly spot movement. A different color. People! With a closer look, I realize it’s the same group of guys I saw earlier. Oh, what a relief! It’s one of those moments I know well from other hikes — when the simple sight of other humans feels like the universe is handing you a bit of courage. You’re not alone. Someone else is walking this same path. And even better – I’m not much slower than them.

I try to keep them in sight, but they vanish behind the trees after a few minutes. Ten more minutes pass without a trace. How could this be? I start wondering if I hallucinated them out of sheer willpower — a small mirage to keep myself going. Who knows at this point…

05:32 PM. I reach a wooden shelter overlooking a small lake. The sun filters through the trees, giving the water that late-summer glow that always looks otherworldly. I walk towards it and just stand there. I come to terms with the realization that the sun will set long before I’ve reached my destination. There’s no way of denying this anymore. The only control I have is how quickly I can keep moving. I really don’t want to be inside the forest when night comes — I’m not experienced with this, and I can already feel myself shudder at the idea of walking through spiderwebs that shall be manifesting in the coming two hours.

The shelter I seriously considered spending the night in

For a brief moment, I wonder if spending the night here could be an option. The place looks calm, safe even. I don’t have a tent, but I have my emergency blanket, something that could pass as a pillow, food, water-cleansing tablets, and a lake shimmering right there. It’s tempting — until I picture how dark it will get. How alone it will feel. How I’d have to walk again tomorrow with no nearby bus, no road, no taxi to call. And my phone’s already attached to the portable charger and won’t make it through another hike tomorrow without a charge. I do have physical maps, but no… it’s just too risky. There’s really no way but forward.

I sit down for ten minutes, eat a few snacks, and remind myself of something that’s saved me many times before: It’s a matter of willpower. Pain is just pain. I can make it despite the pain. I can feel pain, but still keep going.

At 05:45 PM, I do a quick stretch and continue.

🍃 Part VII – The Trees That Finally Broke My Cool

05:55 PM. My energy is surprisingly steady, as I keep going. I’m at 13.5 kilometers now, walking at a decent pace. The forest still holds enough light to comfort me, and I try to focus on the music playing softly from my packet. Spotify has decided that hip-hop is what I need for the evening. Sure. Why not.

Then, I reach a crossroads — the Sörmlandsleden, my official route, continues to the left, while another trail, the Blå leden, veers off to the right. Both seem about the same distance, but the Sörmlandsleden leads downhill and along the water, so I decide to stay loyal to the plan.

A few steps later, something shifts. The forest thickens around me, the air growing heavy and dark. My eyes start to strain against the dim light and humidity, but I try to stay calm, one step at a time. Then I see it: three fallen trees lying across the path. Fuck.

I still remembered to take a photo for this blog…
*pats herself on the shoulders*

I climb over them slowly, every movement feeling like it costs ten steps’ worth of energy. Then another tree appears, surrounded by a chaos of dead branches. And further ahead — more. The path is littered with fallen trunks.

There aren’t really words for that moment. A deep wave of hopelessness just rolls through me. I stop, press my hands over my eyes, and let out a few small tears — half anger, half surrender. What the fuck do I do now?

Continuing feels impossible. I’m at 14 kilometers, with another eleven to go. If the rest of the trail looks like this, I won’t make it. And the thought of walking back uphill to the Blå leden makes me want to collapse right here among the branches.

I stand there for a while, quietly furious. I had checked the official Sörmlandsleden website before coming here — no mention of fallen trees, no sign of this mess. This isn’t some recent storm damage. How irresponsible is this?

Eventually, I take a moment to accept what I’ve been avoiding: This sucks. And I can’t do this alone anymore. My thoughts are too heavy, looping in anger and doubt, and I need an anchor. So, with reluctance and relief in equal parts, I call someone I trust. It feels like a small defeat — this is supposed to be my solo hike — but also like an act of sanity.

As soon as I hear a familiar friendly voice, I start talking fast, ranting, letting it all out. “I still have fourteen kilometers to walk, and I’m tired, I hate this, and none of this is worth it. Everyone told me I have to go to Sweden, I have to go to Sweden, but it’s not even that different from Germany! I fucking hate this.”

And within seconds, the pressure eases. I did the right thing. The weight in my chest begins to dissolve. I’m not alone anymore — at least not in the ways that matter. The thoughts that have been pacing in circles finally quiet down. My body still feels resistant to continue with every step, but I have no choice but to go on.

So, with a supportive voice on the line, I start walking back up the hill. Every step is a prayer — that the next path, the other path, will be kinder.

🍃 Part VIII – A Night Walk Nobody Asked For

06:30 PM. It’s getting darker, fast. Luckily, the Blå leden turns out to be much friendlier — familiar mossy stones, soft forest ground, a rhythm my body remembers. The sound of someone else’s voice in my ear helps work wonders, tugging me gently away from my spiral of bad thoughts. And slowly, my energy starts returning, and I find my arms swinging the poles with something close to enthusiasm again.

The last bit of sun

I stop to check my map, searching for an alternative route — something more open, less forested, even if it adds distance. I’d rather walk an extra hour than stumble through the dark forest, waving a flashlight at spiderwebs and fallen trees. Nope to that.

06:50 PM. Relief washes over me as I reach a gravel path. It adds another kilometer, but I’ll gladly pay that price. There’s still a faint shimmer of light left — maybe twenty percent — and around nine kilometers to go. Although with every step doubt lingers like a shadow at my heels, I hold tightly onto the belief that I can make it.

07:30 PM. Relief hits me again as the gravel turns to asphalt. An actual road. Who would’ve thought I’d ever be so happy to see cars? It’s another detour, another two kilometers added, but it beats walking through the forest in the dark. The sky has faded to its last thread of blue, maybe five percent light left. Cars pass occasionally, their headlights feeling surreal, like brief, alien visits.

I realize I’ve never done this before — walking alone in the dark. I’ve always wanted to try it, but definitely not like this. I tell myself it’s an experience, at least — a story in the making — but the thought lands flat. Everything hurts. My body feels like it’s running on reserve battery mode.

I decide that if a car stops and offers help, I’ll say yes. But none do. Not one slows down. Do I look like I know what I’m doing? I wonder. Probably. And truthfully, the thought of stopping someone makes me uncomfortable. Unless I collapse right here and my legs refuse to get up again, I won’t ask. I chose this path; I chose the risk. Being tired, angry, and sore is part of the deal. And even through all that, I still believe I’ll make it — angry, sad, exhausted, yes — but I’ll make it.

08:00 PM. Seven kilometers to go. I try to comfort myself: this is just like walking across Berlin. Easy. I’ve done that before. Just not with twenty-one kilometers already behind me, and a mountain for a backpack. Still, doable. This is just a walk across Berlin – I try to make it my mantra.

By now, the sky is ninety-nine percent dark, the last one percent borrowed from the stars. There are no streetlights here. I turn on my phone’s flashlight — both to see the ground and to signal to occasionally passing cars that I exist. My clothes have nothing reflective, so this tiny rectangle of light becomes my lifeline.

The trees look utterly different in the light of a flashlight. There’s nothing serene about them now — no dreamy moss, no magical sunlight glow. They’re skeletal, distorted, shifting shapes in the beam. There’s nothing poetic about them in this light. It feels like a horror film I accidentally wandered into. I try to focus on the road, but every few meters a road sign catches the light and flashes back at me — and for a second I think it’s a person. My heart jolts. Breathe, I tell myself. Breathe.

09:00 PM. Three kilometers left. It’s hard to describe the exhaustion coursing through me — it’s not just physical anymore. It’s something deeper, a full-body protest. Somewhere, far in the rational part of my mind, I know this will turn into a story I’ll value later, when it’s just a memory. But right now, it’s pure torment, a slow-motion test of will. I’ve been walking for two and a half hours straight, trapped in the loop of just keep going. I know if I stop, my legs will refuse to lift again.

Every little sound sharpens my nerves. A sudden rustle, a shape in the dark — everything sends a jolt of adrenaline through me. My energy is strained to the maximum, all of it channeled into movement and fear management. And my mind, being unhelpfully creative, starts digging up every horror movie I’ve ever seen, filling the night with imaginary monsters.

Still, I walk.

🍃 Part IX – The Longest Kilometer Of My Life

09:30 PM. One kilometer to go. The darkness of the trees has vanished, and I find myself beneath a vast, star-filled sky. It’s calm. I take a moment to stop, to grasp that I’m here, still standing upright, and to feel the awe of what’s above me. The pain in my joints is unbearable, but for a fleeting instant, I feel hugged by the serenity that surrounds me. It’s just me. The silence. The night. Thousands of stars shimmering, unaffected by my complaining self. A sight I’d neither see in Berlin nor in Cairo. And even though I’m in pain, there’s a flicker of gratitude.

09:45 PM. 600 meters left. With tears held back, I walk. A distance so small, compared to the rest of the trip, yet so cruelly infinite. Each micro-movement screams pain. My body has turned into one long ache, the last 5% of my energy is fully employed in this desperate choreography of walking. Almost there, I tell myself. Just keep going.

09:50 PM. Thousands of trees have swallowed me again. Darkness presses in from all sides. But thankfully, the gravel path is wide and well-maintained. I know the cabin sits by a lake, hiding somewhere in this quiet maze. Then in the distance, I see some faint lights. As I approach, I spot small, round lightbulbs strung along a fence.

My navigation shows I’m fifty meters away, but I don’t see anything. Then I realize I’ve fallen victim to my favorite rookie mistake once again: putting a “vague” pin as a destination, instead of the exact address. With a frustrated sigh, I adjust the destination, and with a very relieved sigh, I realize the cabin is only another 200 meters further…

09:55 PM. I can definitely recognize I’m at the campsite now, but I don’t spot a single person. Limping between wooden structures and vans, I notice how every bit of patience is long gone. I’m dying to lay down. As even the motion of reaching for my phone hurts, I try to find the cabin based on my vague memory of the Airbnb photos. I spot a small cabin that looks somewhat familiar — wooden, with stairs, maybe it’s this one. I climb up, whispering apologies to my knees with every step. But at the door: no lockbox. I shine my flashlight through the window, peering in like a desperate person. Definitely the wrong one. And luckily empty.

And then — something brushes hard against my leg. I jump back, heart in my throat, only to find… a friendly orange cat. Just seeking some attention.
“Oh, hello there…” I manage, half chuckling, half in shock. It rubs against my shin again, purring like it knows I needed this tiny distraction. I bow down for a second to pet it and let myself be comforted by its fluffiness, before apologetically dragging myself down the stairs once more.

10:00 PM. And there it is. The right cabin.
A Swedish flag hanging proudly from its balcony. My final landmark.

I climb up again — slowly, apologizing aloud to my joints. I punch in the code, open the lockbox, and when the key falls into my hand, I nearly cry. The door opens on the first try. And there, standing in the warm light of the cabin, I hang up the phone with a grateful heart, throw my backpack to the ground, let myself fall on the couch, and just lay there for what feels like eternity.

“I’ve made it.”

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🍃 If you’ve read this far, thank you — truly. I know this day was heavier and darker than most of my hikes, maybe even difficult to read at times. But growth and self-discovery are a big part of why I walk and put myself in challenging conditions, and that means learning to accept that not every trail is made of sunlight. And since honesty is the ground I try to write from, softening this story or polishing it into something neater would have felt wrong. But looking back, these experiences are always the ones that leave the deepest trace, the life learnings, the ones that quietly shift something inside me — so it’s with gratitude that I’ve written this chapter.

I promise the next ones will come with calmer skies and even some sunshine. 🌞

Thank you for walking with me — I’d love to hear what you think. 🙌

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Quick view of hike stats:

🥾 Distance hiked: 27.9 km
⏱️ Time in motion: 7h 12 min
🏃🏻‍♀️ Average speed: 3.9 km/h
⛰️ Elevation hiked: 370 m

More detailed stats on Komoot (click on the photo to go to route):

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The next post shall be up in 2-3 weeks – stay tuned!

🖼️ If you liked the photos and would like a print or to use any of them as a wallpaper, please feel free to reach out to me! 🫶

💛 If you enjoyed reading my daydreams and would like to support me or express a small thank you, maybe you’d like to buy me a coffee? ☕ I LOVE coffee, and be assured it’s a guaranteed way to give me a BIG moment of happiness. ☺️ 💁🏻‍♀️

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“And Then Sweden Happened” – 8 Days of Dreaming, Walking & Wandering in Sweden (Day 1)

🙋🏻‍♀️ Hello everyone and welcome to a new series of my long-distance hiking adventures! 🥾

This time not in Germany – but in Sweden for a change! I’d been craving a hike that felt a little out of my comfort zone, something that would give me the jolt of newness I’d been missing. It could just as well have been Poland, Spain, or even France, but in the end, Sweden – or shall I say “Sverige” (pronounced as “Sver-yeh”) – won the casting call. And out of my comfort zone it ABSOLUTELY has been.

👋 Now, a small disclaimer before we set off: the first ‘day’, which is being described in this post, is actually my observant and dreamy travel day from Germany to Sweden. There’s no hiking in it. But since for me the buildup is part of the adventure, and this was my very first time heading to Sweden, it felt important to include a post about it. However, if you’d rather skip straight to the walking part, no hard feelings — you’ll find the real hike starting with Day 2, which is in the process of being written. 😌

🎉 For everyone else, buckle up for a ride full of dreaminess, some chaotic moments, excitement, mixed with a hint of clumsiness that is me. Let’s start!

(Estimated read time: 26 minutes)

🇪🇬 Do you prefer to read this post in Egyptian Arabic? Click here.


September 19, 2025 – Day 1
(Train & Ferry Trip from Germany to Sweden)

Part I – Morning Weightlifting

I wake up around 6:00 AM, after repeatedly snoozing for a full half hour. Luckily the question of “whether I really want to risk snoozing one more time and ruining my full hike before even starting it” hits the right nerve, and pushes me to get out of bed.

Putting on the lights (yes, it’s still dark) and preparing the right cup of morning coffee starts giving this day the feeling that it’s here, and my hike is actually happening. Sweden, I’m less than 24 hours away!

I revisit today’s plan in my head, while I sip my coffee and do some routine morning stretches to wake up my sleepy body. Today’s plan goes as follows: I’ll be taking the train from Berlin all the way to Rostock (a German city by the Baltic Sea), and after a short transit stop, I will be taking the ferry (with huge excitement) to a coastal city called Trelleborg in Sweden, where I’ll be spending the first night. The next day, I’ll take a train to Järna (a Swedish city south-west of Stockholm), and from there I will be starting my official hike.

I pack up the last remaining things, expressing a big thank you to my past self for doing such a good job packing 90% of the things yesterday, so I wouldn’t have to worry about this now. I get dressed, excited to try on my upgraded hiking outfit, and I do my best to ignore the little shock I get while swinging the backpack over my shoulders and realizing how heavy it is. I comfort myself with the idea that it will get lighter with every passing day. Off we go!

Part II – Cheered On By Marathoners

07:45 AM. By the time I’m on my way to the train station, the sky is light and the day has started. The air feels a little chilly and damp in a refreshing way. Berlin’s streets aren’t crowded yet, but dozens of runners jog past me, training for the marathon that shall take place this weekend. I can’t help but smile — their determined steps feel like a kind of encouragement, reminding me that I’m not alone in this challenge I’m about to begin.

I notice my motivation’s still low, my legs feel a bit stiff, and I’m annoyed at failing to find a comfortable way of holding my not-so-light camera. But I remind myself that I’m familiar with this discomfort always being part of the “warmup” to the hike, and I’ll figure out a better way along the way, just like I always do.

At the train station, I jump onto an S-Bahn (urban rapid railway) that takes me to the central station. Happily, I realize I have a full half hour before the train to Rostock departs — a little luxury I take advantage of to get some snacks for the trip.

Halfway down the escalator to the right platform I clumsily try to take a few photos to document the start of this day, but it’s too busy and I’m too overwhelmed, so I give up after a couple of attempts.

My clumsy overwhelmed potato quality shot…

The platform is really crowded with what I assume to be at least 200 people. And not long after arriving, the first bad news announcement is heard: ten minute delay. Then, a couple minutes after: twenty minute delay. Really annoying, but… it wouldn’t be the German railway without a delay after all.

I remind myself to stay calm and use the time to people-watch instead. There’s a wide range to be entertained by — solo travelers in all styles and ages, with and without dogs, couples hugging each other, older people with neat little suitcases, big groups of students on their senior trips, reminding me of my older school days. It’s a miniature world to observe and daydream about, and somehow that lightens the feeling of waiting.

Look again! That’s a reflection, not a real person. ;)

When the train finally arrives (unsurprisingly at a different platform), the whole crowd surges into motion to board. Luckily, the platform is just opposite of the one originally planned, so there’s no need for me to heave my backpack up the stairs in a wild sprint… along with a hundred other people. A small victory — but one I’ll take!

Part III – The Seat Challenge

09:10 AM. Boarding the train is its own small storm. Although I’m right near the front and have the luxury of choosing between several empty seats, my brain glitches and somehow decides to walk past them all, convinced there must be something better just ahead. Of course, by the time I realize there isn’t, the wave of people behind me has already occupied all the free seats. Why, dear brain, why?

With some luck, I spot a three-seater where only one older woman is sitting, her bag carefully guarding the seat in front of her. I ask, as politely as possible, if the spot is free. She hesitates, then admits only one is available, not both. “That’s perfect,” I reply with excitement, relieved to have somewhere to settle — and even some space beside me for my bulky backpack.

View from my seat

“It’s really full today, isn’t it?” she says to me, with surprised eyes and a dissatisfied expression.
“Yes, very much so,” I answer, offering her a sympathetic smile.

I watch her in amusement, as she repeatedly shoos away other desperate passengers from the seat she’s saving. The poor woman looks tense, and I can’t help but remember the last time I tried to guard a seat for a friend who was late and how stressful it was to turn people away while the train filled up so fast. Today, I’m glad it’s not my responsibility.

Around four stations later, the friend my seat-neighbour has been guarding the place for finally arrives. The two women look so alike in aura and manner that I assume they must have known each other for years. We exchange polite smiles, then return to our own worlds. Mine, for now, consists of daydreaming out the window, immersing myself in music, wandering between meditative questions about the universe and nervous excitement about my trip ahead, while Berlin slides by in its usual grey palette, softened only by trees and the occasional balcony overflowing with lush green plants.

The weather is cloudy, uninspiring, but then again — I won the snooze challenge, made it out of my bed and onto the train on time, and that in itself is enough to spark some motivation. The journey has begun!

Part IV – You’ve Got This

Around 11:30 AM, the train pulls into Rostock. The next step is to take another S-Bahn to a station called Lütten-Klein, where I’ll switch to a bus that goes directly to the ferry terminal. As I know the station from past trips to the sea, so navigating through the crowds doesn’t throw me off, and I find the S-Bahn easily.

At first, I’m lucky enough to enjoy the comfort of a four-seater to myself for a few stations. But soon, two women join — one of them has sharply tattooed eyebrows and throws me a smile. I smile back, wondering how I must look with hiking poles sticking out of my backpack like antennae.

At another stop, a group of eight middle-aged men pile in, luggage in tow, spilling across the remaining seats and blocking half the hallway. I already start planning how I’ll maneuver past them with my backpack without looking entirely ridiculous.

To add to my anxiety, the announcements on the train aren’t working, and strangely, the station names aren’t even visible on the platforms, no matter how hard I look.

“Well, you know what to do!”, I tell myself. I’ve been in this situation before and know a trick. I keep Google Maps open, tracking the little dot that is me, as I float through the map, while the train moves, all the way to my destination. All it needs is some focus and trust that I’ve got this.

One station before Lütten-Klein, I awkwardly heave the backpack on while still seated, trying to give the impression that I know what I’m doing – both to myself and everyone around me. One of the men catches my eye and gives me a warm, reassuring smile. It helps. I balance my way past their luggage (thank you, daily Yoga exercises!), squeeze through to the door, and step into the outside air with a deep sigh of relief. Mission accomplished!

12:00 PM. The walk to the bus stop is straightforward, though I groan when I realize the next bus isn’t due for another 20 minutes. Hmm. Continue standing in this bland greyness or go explore and see if I can grab a coffee somewhere? Easy choice!

I wander back to the station and spot a small service store. The cashier, a black-haired woman with strikingly blue eyes, greets me, and I ask — with all the charm I can muster — if there’s a toilet. She smiles, hands me a key, and I find myself in a basic little room, happy just to freshen up and check if my braids still look halfway presentable.

Afterwards, I return to the counter to give back the key and to buy a coffee. A self-serve filter coffee, nothing fancy, but the simple act of pouring it myself feels grounding. With the warm cup in hand, I head back to the bus stop. Ten minutes left. The platform slowly fills with people, who, by their quiet expectancy, are clearly waiting for the same bus.

Waiting for the bus, this time with coffee!

Then I see it: the bus has been sitting just across the street the entire time, only five steps away. But when departure time comes, the driver pulls out of his spot, out of the station, onto the main street, circles the block in a U-turn, and comes back around to park neatly in front of us. I can’t help but chuckle in disbelief.
Tell me you’re in Germany without telling me you’re in Germany...

The bus was just five steps away

Part V – Egypt Pays An Anecdotal Visit

12:20 PM. We board the bus and I settle near the back, surrounded by men in worker uniforms chatting amongst themselves. One of them has such a heavy dialect I barely catch half of what he’s saying, but it doesn’t matter — their banter is oddly comforting.

I stay alert for the stop announcements, since here you have to press the red “STOP” button or the bus won’t stop at your station, unless someone else is waiting for the bus there. The name “Seehafen Fähre” (lake harbor ferry) finally comes, and I press it in time, though the bus still takes a full ten minutes to arrive there.

Somewhere along the way, one of the men suddenly launches into a story about driving in Egypt and how cheap it is to get a license there. He swears you can do it in two weeks for 160 euros, though you can’t use it abroad. I laugh quietly to myself at the randomness of this conversation, as if Egypt has just stepped into the bus with us. He goes on about taxes and car prices in a way that makes little sense to me, but his confidence is entertaining enough.

12:35 PM. At last, the bus pulls into a wide industrial-looking area filled with trucks and scattered cars under a hazy sky. No sign of the sea yet. Everyone gets off, and I follow the men toward a reddish building that looks promising.

Inside, it’s quiet — just a few travelers, some self-check-in counters, and no visible staff. I look for “StenaLine,” the company I booked with, only to later discover today’s sailing is run by “TT-Line.” A hastily taped paper sign and a not-so-enthusiastic clerk behind a counter, send me back through another set of doors until I finally find the right counter.

There, an older woman with short white hair greets me with genuine warmth and enthusiasm. After the indifference of the first clerk, her friendliness catches me off guard. She excitedly checks my ticket with a big smile and wide open attentive eyes, confirms my cabin, does not bother checking my ID, and hands me a small boarding pass that also serves as my cabin key. Relief washes over me. My online reservation worked!

“One of those red shuttle buses will take you to the ferry,” she explains, while pointing to some neatly parked red buses outside. “They’ll come about half an hour before departure time.”

Since it’s still 12:45 PM and the bus should come at 1:30 PM, that leaves me with almost an hour to wait — enough time for a snack, a deep breath, and to notice that the sun, at last, is beginning to shyly show itself through the hazy sky. A small gift, right here at the edge of the sea, which to this moment I cannot yet see. Still, it’s a gift I’ll happily take!

Unfortunately, I took this photo before the sun came out

Part VI – Rejected Together

The time passes quietly, in that way waiting hours sometimes do, carried forward by little fragments of observation that turn into their own kind of meditation. At first it’s just me and another woman, but slowly the wind-shielded room fills with other travelers, each one adding their own small presence to the scene. Across from me an older couple occupies a bench; the woman is loudly narrating her discovery of how her phone works, as if each small revelation requires to be shared with such excitement, and I can’t help but smile. Right behind them another couple sits in perfect contrast — silent, companionable, nibbling on snacks with deep serenity.

Then a young man with blond hair rolls in with his bicycle and cycling gear. Without hesitation, he looks at the group and asks in the sweetest, most excited way if someone could watch his bike while he buys a ticket. “But of course!” I reply immediately, touched by the trust in his voice, that simple assumption of goodwill between strangers.

The waiting room continues to populate in this gradual, almost choreographed fashion. A trio of backpackers — two young women and a curly-haired man, who catches my attention with his colorful clothes and red-patterned keffiyeh — spreads itself across a corner. A young couple stands by the glass wall, locked in a loop of hugs, clearly preparing for a farewell. Three more female solo travelers appear, one with a dog and a backpack so large, I’m humbled by her capability to carry it, in comparison to mine.

1:20 PM. By the time a red shuttle bus finally pulls up, we’ve formed a short line, united by nothing more than our collective wish to finally be taken to the ferry. Everyone takes their turn, only for the driver to shake his head at each presented ticket with the same firm, but comically pronounced words: “Nein, auch nicht!” (Meaning: No, also not.) One after the other is turned away, and when my turn comes and I reluctantly show my boarding pass, I too earn my own “Nein, auch nicht!” — the sixth in a row — which sets the group giggling, myself included. There’s something oddly bonding in being rejected together.

We linger on the pavement as one bus after the other passes us by. Ten minutes stretch into twenty, and I watch a driver at another red bus wrestle with its door, prying it open with annoyed confusion. “Is that our bus?” I wonder, half amused, half worried, but of course, only time will tell. My gaze drifts unwillingly toward a group of four police officers nearby, busy stopping vans and cars that had just deboarded a ferry for spot checks. It feels uncomfortable to watch, but like everyone else I catch myself glancing over again and again, the collective curiosity too strong to resist.

And then, at last, our bus arrives — with a delay, but whole and functioning. We climb aboard in a flurry of relief, and just like that we’re finally on our way to the ferry.

Part VII – The Labyrinth Of The Ferry

1:45 PM. The bus drops us in front of a gigantic ferry, probably the largest I’ve ever seen. Boarding, however, turns out to be far less straightforward than I’d imagined…

I step down, camera in hand, torn between wanting to grab a few photos and the rising urgency of simply not losing my fellow travelers, as there isn’t a single person around to ask for directions, if I get lost. I fall in step behind three fellow travelers who seem, at least in that moment, to know what they’re doing. They stride confidently up the ramp that has been lowered for cars and trucks, and I, with no better plan, follow them straight into the cave-like garage — a space large enough to hold at least thirty trucks and hundreds of cars.

It’s there, wedged between this monstruously long line of vehicles, that one of the other women suddenly interrupts the silence: “Do you all actually know where we’re going, or are you just following?”

I admit that I was just trailing along, reassured by the bus driver’s lack of objection when he saw us on the ramp. To be safe, I call out to the trio ahead, asking as sweetly as I can: “Are you sure you know where you’re going?” One of them turns around, nods, says a quick yes, and keeps walking. But only a few steps later we’re caught in a dead end, pinned between trucks, with no sign of an exit.

The nervous traveler seizes the chance to give us an impromptu lecture on ferry safety — apparently we were supposed to board from the outside, through a ladder. With some awkwardness, we walk all the way back, only to find that no such ladder exists. Where to go? The woman starts nervously approaching a security cabin, seeking anyone to ask for directions, only to find it empty. We spot a couple of men wearing vests and guiding trucks into position in the distance, but they seem way too busy to interrupt. None of us have the nerve to walk across to them.

The woman who had first guided the way into the garage uses the chance to insist that this was the right way, and that’s the way she’s always done it. So, obediently, we head back into the garage. This time I notice, from a distance, a row of doors leading to stairways and elevators. I point them out, and our spirits lift as we head toward them, laughing at the absurdity of our situation.

At the door, the curly-haired man in the keffiyeh presses a large black button that looks more like a knob than anything else, and a sliding door opens. We stand at crossroads again – where to now? And is this even the right door? There are three other ones down the hallway…

As every person tries to make sense of the situation, I notice the giant letter signs above each door, matching the letters printed on our boarding passes. I try to draw attention to this logic, but I fail to get through to anyone, so I wave awkwardly and head toward the door marked with an “A” on my own, which is where my cabin is supposed to be.

Two weary-looking men in worker clothes glance at me as I wait for the elevator. Their mood doesn’t invite conversation and I don’t feel very welcome, so I choose to take the stairs instead. It isn’t until I’m halfway up that I notice I’ll have to climb all the way to level nine. I give the elevator another chance, only to find it slow and, when it finally arrives, already full. Fine. I’ll walk.

Step after step, past orange-painted walls, two men fixing lights in the ceiling, a couple of doors that lead nowhere, I at last emerge into a bright, super calm corridor. To my surprise the ferry feels less like a ship and more like a freshly polished, modern hotel — patterned walls, soft LED strips, soft rugged carpet underfoot. It’s incredibly quiet. I encounter just one couple wandering in search of their own room.

And then, in the middle of one insignificant hallway, the magic number appears: 9519. My cabin! I slip the boarding pass into the slot, wait for the green light, and feel a giant wave of relief when the door clicks open.

Part VIII – Blissfully Afloat

2:00 PM. I’m pleasantly surprised at how nice the cabin is. Clean, spacious, a lovely sea view — AND a bathroom with a shower! I’d expected a tiny crammed box where I could barely lay down my bags, so this exceeds all expectations and gives the vibe of a small sanctuary on this gigantic ship.

After taking the first set of photos and videos, I settle onto the bed and gaze out the window. We’ve started moving. The harbor glides past in slow motion, white-foamed waves forming around the ship, and I’m amazed by the height I’m looking down at the sea from.

There’s a constant white noise and light pressure in the air, which oddly soothes me. Along with the magnificent sea view, settling in proves to be incredibly calming, and I thank myself for spending a few extra bucks to book this cabin with a view.

2:40 PM. After some time stretching my legs and letting them relax after the stiff train ride, my explorer mode kicks in. Shoes on, grateful for some time away from the backpack, I take a discovery stroll around the ferry, a labyrinth in itself. Signs lead everywhere and nowhere — a sauna here (oh, how I wish I’d known beforehand!), three restaurants pointing in opposite directions, a shop somewhere — so I follow the subtle sounds of laughter and music coming from the distance instead.

The sounds lead me up some stairs, and then some more, until I I find around five different seating areas; one of them comes with a lounge-y vibe, the other feels more casual, the rest provides a mix of cantine-feeling and stylish bookstore. I really like the variety! And then, a few twists and turns later, I stumble onto a sun deck.

Stepping outside feels almost like a trance. Hazy sunlight filters through a soft, sleepy atmosphere. Two groups of men in work clothes enjoy large glasses of beer near the entrance; lounge chairs stretch out under the sun, mostly occupied with people lazily spread all over them, each in their own space. Wooden steps in the middle hold a few scattered seniors along with two young men, who are stretching in the sun. I walk slowly, taking it all in — the calmness, the warm light, the gentle movements around me.

I head back inside briefly for a hot chocolate. With the drink in hand, I return to the wooden steps, settle down, lean back, and close my eyes. The mix of euphoria, serenity, gentle observation, and warmth of the chocolate feels like the perfect pause in the middle of the journey.

Part IX – Dinner And Golden Light

3:30 PM. Eventually, reality calls me back and I decide to head back inside to eat. Vegetarian options are limited, but a vegan sausage with fries will do. I pick a corner seat in the cantine-style area, which gives me a bit of privacy, a glowing sea view, and a sweeping perspective over the rest of the space.

I savor each bite, fully aware that this will be my last restaurant meal for a few days. The first hikes will be solitary, remote, with no shops or restaurants and no capacity to cook sophisticated warm meals. Knowing this makes every fry, every bite of sausage, more precious.

4:00 PM. With about three hours left before docking, I wander back to my cabin for a rest and a short meditation. By the time I reach my room, the sunlight streams through the window, and I feel grateful for the peaceful space, letting the sunshine wash over me with warmth. I change into comfortable clothes, sit on the bed, and close my eyes. Ambient music fills the background as I imagine the sunlight as flowing love, filling me from head to toe. Slowly, I lay back, surrendering to one of the most serene sleeps I’ve had in a long while.

Sunset view from my cabin

Part X – Patience, Patience And Some More Patience

6:30 PM. The alarm nudges me awake, gently, as the ferry’s arrival looms. I linger in the semi-dream, trying to get a few extra minutes of sleep, until the crew’s loud announcement brings me fully back to the reality that I have to leave this cabin within thirty minutes, as we’re approaching the shore soon. Oh no!

Sunset spreads across the water, a quiet reward for being dragged out of that perfect sleep. I stretch, pack my things, and take one last look at the cabin in gratitude for this experience. I then make my way to the restaurant area, finding space by three massive windows overlooking the sea, settling in with my camera to capture the changing light.

7:00 PM. An announcement notifies us “travelers without a vehicle” that we need to wait by the restaurant area to be guided on from there. I stand up and head there. After a few more minutes, other travelers arrive — the curly-haired man and his companions, the dog-owning solo traveler, the blond woman who’d been hugging her partner all the time. And now we wait. 10, 15, and then 20 minutes pass… No updates, nothing. We’ve docked, but as pedestrians we’re not allowed to leave the ferry on our own.

7:20 PM. Countering the lingering boredom, the blond woman strikes up a conversation in German, curious about where I’m headed. I tell her it’s my first time in Sweden, and I’ll be hiking on my own, starting from Järna all the way to Eskilstuna (more on that in the next posts!). She mentions she lives in Sweden but still has a train ride ahead of her, and warmly expresses support for my solo hike. She also jokes about how slowly everything moves here, referring to the slowness of getting us off this ship. But can anything possibly be slower than Germany? I silently doubt it.

“This is a real patience test,” I say, as we hit the thirty-minute mark waiting, and a ripple of laughter passes through the group. Our eyes keep glancing at the staff — one of which is holding a walkie-talkie, clearly communicating with someone. The cashier glances at us with an almost apologetic look for the wait, continuing to clean and dry equipment. Then, suddenly, a man in a yellow vest appears out of nowhere, and everyone stares, wide-eyed and excited, only for him to vanish just as quickly behind a door. Sigh.

7:40 PM. Finally, a full forty minutes after docking, another young man with dark hair, a solid build, and a vest approaches, announcing that we’re ready to go. Sweetly, he asks if anyone needs help carrying anything. We all freeze, surprised by the offer, thinking we misheard. He spots the girl with the dog and her enormous backpack, asking if he should carry hers. With wide open eyes expressing her surprise, she excitedly takes the offer and hands the bag over. Seconds later, the whole group erupts in laughter as the man struggles under the weight, exclaiming in shock about how heavy it really is.

We follow him through hallways, across the sun deck that is now cast with a navy-blue evening sky, down a flight of stairs, and into an elevator. The girl owning the heavy backpack gets assigned to the second elevator group, so as soon as the doors close upon us in the elevator, the man again leads the group to a moment of laughter, as he again complains about the weight: “I don’t know what’s in that bag, but it’s heavy!” Once downstairs in the gigantic garage, we wait by the door, and I watch trucks rumble past, some of them loaded with brand-new cars. I again feel amazed at the sheer capacity of the ship.

He guides us to the shuttle bus and says a sweet goodbye, before the bus takes us to the port gate. Darkness has settled, but a gentle warm breeze keeps the air pleasant and my excitement for this adventure fresh.

As I rush through a door held open by a harbor worker, after getting off the bus, I get so absorbed in finding the right path that when I turn to wave goodbye, I notice the rest of the group has already moved on toward the train station. A feeling of sadness hits me, as I hope I haven’t given the impression of indifference — but now that the moment’s gone, I say my farewell on a heart level and choose to shift my focus on the quiet relief of having arrived.

8:00 PM. The city is quiet and its streets empty. A bus glides by, and a pair of teenage girls chatter loudly, each with a phone in one hand and balancing an e-scooter with the second. Darkness, calmness, and stillness wrap around me, and between rushed steps to the apartment I’ve booked for the night, I start feeling like I’ve arrived.

I am pleasantly greeted with candy that carries my name… well, almost!

8:20 PM. A couple of kilometers later, I reach the apartment and check in without much difficulty. As soon as I’m inside, I let my backpack fall to the floor with a sigh of relief. A warm shower follows, then a simple dinner, before I finally close the blinds, letting the day gently settle behind me. Grateful for a smooth start, I feel my curiosity stirring for what tomorrow might hold…

…and oh, it promises some surprises.

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If you’ve read this far, I’d like to express a deep, heartfelt THANK YOU. ❤️ It means so much to me that you’ve taken the time to accompany me from the first chapter of my journey, and I can’t wait to share the rest with you. The next post shall be up in 1-2 weeks – stay tuned!

💛 If you enjoyed reading my daydreams and would like to support me or express a small thank you, maybe you’d like to buy me a coffee? ☕ I LOVE coffee, and be assured it’s a guaranteed way to give me a BIG moment of happiness. ☺️ 💁🏻‍♀️

🖼️ If you liked the photos and would like a print or to use any of them as a wallpaper, please feel free to reach out to me! 🫶

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Day 7 of “I am doing this” – Neubukow – Insel Poel

Today’s walked route from Neubukow to Insel Poel

07:45. I hear my alarm. I’m so deep in my dreams that this is where I hear it. I snooze. 07:53. Second alarm. Okay, well, I can’t snooze again. But this bed is so warm and cozy… what do people do who really camp in a tent for days? I admire them so much more now in perspective.

Okay, up now. New day, new impressions, new adventures awaiting me! I am amused over the fact that I am so tired, yet so excited to go on today’s trip.

I had a really good sleep at least. It was a good decision to close down the blackouts. Body’s quite stiff though, and the knee doesn’t wanna play along. Maybe some yoga stretches will help. I do that for a few minutes, and manage to prepare a hot tap water Tchibo coffee. It actually works! It’s good, does the purpose and feels good to smell while doing yoga. And the yoga actually helps immensely. I feel so much better now. At least regarding the stiffness.

My nose is unhappy though. I take my prescribed Cortisone spray (ugh!) and accept the price of not tasting 60% of the food I’m eating during breakfast. I hoped the daily fresh air would help me, but it doesn’t seem to do much. I’m a bit sad about that. Since my knee is also not in its best mood and still hurts, I decide to take my first painkiller on this trip. So far, I’ve been very patient and careful with my body, and I think one painkiller won’t be such a bad idea.

Breakfast is sweet and simple. Black coffee, bread, butter, cheese and jam. The room is just big enough to fit about 10-15 people. It’s got a very reddish palette and the style gives a funny impression. I enjoy it very much, as it’s calm and I’m the last one to come, and the last one to leave. A woman with Asian features sweetly tells me that I can also sit outside if I wish, and on any other day I probably would’ve went for that. But it’s interesting how much you appreciate being inside, when you have to be outdoors all day long.

My breakfast… and gloves we were given to wear
The breakfast room – look at that funny radio on top of the cheese bar

Back to my room I end up packing in a hurry, realizing checkout is at 11:00 and it’s actually almost 11:00. Where did all the time go? In the end I rush unnecessarily, as nobody is downstairs anyway, and I can just leave the keys in the mailbox.

Off we go. I walk very slowly, enjoying the grey weather that is doing me well. I see the tiny city in a new light, both literally and mentally. As I had arrived quite dead the day before, I couldn’t take in so much, but now I can.

I walk down the Hanseatenweg hiking path, a really well paved one, half bike path, half hiking path. It is windy, it is beautiful. It is entirely empty. Cars pass by, but the path is empty. I only see two cyclists who are taking a break at some resting spot.

Sighted along the Hanseatenweg
I walk parallel to this street

Somehow I am in love with the surrounding, in love with the way the tree leaves and the grass move in the wind. I immerse myself in the surrounding entirely. The only really big downside, repeating over the whole trip, is the sound of passing cars, when you are walking parallel to the street. It’s a sound that feels incredibly violent and shocking next to the very fine calmness of the setting that is mostly natural.

I can only stand the car sounds for a few minutes. I put on one track to start the day, fitting to the dreamy, but dark vibe of the weather. A very beautiful instrumental post-rock kind of remix of Bint Al Khandaq by Lost Souls of Saturn. It makes me close my eyes and feel the wind and the surrounding become one with me. It’s only me and them and the music.

A wide field next to the hiking path

I walk and walk, feeling very meditative. I focus on every footstep, trying to be mindful in order not to hurt my knee. I try to walk in a certain rhythm so my energy doesn’t scatter. I realize with happiness that on this trip I have surely become more “sure-footed” – I feel more confident with every step I make.

I am led through a beautiful forest, with high trees, calm and all to myself. I don’t see a single person. At some point a car, and then a few minutes later a minivan need to pass me. Other than that it’s just me and the birds.

It’s funny – the trees make a certain sound sometimes, when the wind moves them. It sounds like a creaking chair or a door that needs to be oiled. Like a sound you’d hear in a thriller movie. They give you the feeling that a branch might suddenly break or so, but it never does. After a couple of days, I got used to the sound entirely and just note it every time I hear it.

Today my mind is calmer than the last days. I am more at peace and more immersed in my surrounding than the last days. Maybe because I’m tired? I don’t know, but it’s a feeling that relieves me.

Some very interesting looking mushrooms I spot in the forest

I feel like I could use some specific music I had downloaded, despite loving the calmness. It’s the soundtrack of Into the Wild by Eddie Vedder, once again speaking to my deepest soul.
It embraces my heart and my wandering soul with the lyrics of the music, and the music itself.

Today, I can also really feel into the movie that the music is made for. I remember Christopher McCandless and his dream to reach Alaska. I remember his desire for a self-chosen exploratory isolation from society, and I remember the feeling it awoke in my soul back then. That movie felt like an escape for me, like a comfort that such a reality is possible, despite its tragic ending. I remember the hope it gave me. And so I say: Christopher McCandless / Alexander Supertramp, I carry you in my heart as I walk the steps of this journey. I carry you, as I walk through this forest. I am eternally grateful to you for what you could awaken within me, just through your journey.

“Society, you’re a crazy breed… I hope you’re not lonely… without me…”

Okay, enough. My journey is not even slightly comparable to his, but the fire that’s inside me comes from a very similar source.

More fallen trees making a nice pattern – yay!

Alt Bukow is my first break point. I have a good feeling about it. It’s a small village, and I find a nice little green area under a tree to sit on. I don’t see anyone – only cars pass by every couple of minutes, but it’s clear they’re only passing through.

A sign greeting me into Alt-Bukow… kind of
First impressions of the city

The city itself is entirely empty. It’s an interesting observation when entering cities or villages in the countryside of Germany. They often have a certain abandonment vibe to them, although the gardens are always taken such good care of and there’s a car outside of each house. You just… barely see any people.

My view while taking a break. I love the color contrast of the trash cans, the building and the sky. I also love the strongly falling shadows. Funnily, the building says “Youth Club” – it looks like it hasn’t been visited in a long time though.
The Youth Club from another perspective
My break food consists of salty seeds, a drink and a muesli bar

After my break, I am led to walk parallel to many fields. I pass by wheat fields, which are beautiful. I have to stop a lot to make photos or videos. Sometimes the motion of certain elements needs to be caught, too, so I capture it on video.

So much life in this!

The only thing that becomes a little tough about walking next to the fields is the smell of cow poop, used as fertilizer. In a way it’s not a bad smell but… after a while it’s somehow harder to bear.

The field from another perspective
And me, covering myself in safety from the sun and the wind

My second longer break comes in a city called Friedrichsdorf. I sit on a bench in front of a pond, rest my tired legs and close my eyes.

My resting spot in front of the pond in Friedrichsdorf

I realize that I’m quite sleepy, despite sleeping long and well that night. I enjoy the surrounding so much, so I do my grounding exercise, mentally noting things I hear.

The wind… the rustling tree leaves… a cock crowing in the distance, cows mooing, cars in the distance… a barking dog…

The sun warms me, while the wind chills me in a perfect combination. It feels like a sunny Winter day in Egypt. I’m really thankful for the weather.

I mentally note some visuals, like a white mushroom, bubbles in the pond, shadows on a house wall, and crying trees, before I have a couple of snacks – like a stolen packaged sunflower seed bread from the breakfast buffet :D – and my espresso chocolate shot. And I make a mess. The liquid inside it flows down my hands and gets sticky. Faaaail.

It’s time to keep walking. The path goes mainly alongside beautiful fields…

…like this

Eventually I am led to another hikers’ path parallel to the street, and after a while, I see the water in the distance. My heart warms up. It reminds me of the times I used to travel with my parents by car to the sea, and we’d all happily spot the sea on the horizon, pointing it out and knowing that we are almost there.

That’s the sea appearing in the distance
And that’s the sea again from a closer spot
The sky’s haze being painted by the sun
Fulfilling my newly explored love for panoramic shots

I am approaching the island. Finally. But somehow these last 4 km take ages to pass. I am overwhelmed by the views around me, but I am tired and annoyed by the cars passing by. They are so loud and it’s impossible to tune them out. And at this point I am so tired I don’t even want to listen to any music anymore. So I just walk and take it, trying to focus on the mind blowing surrounding I am getting the chance to witness.

Just so you get an idea – the coming photos are all taken at this area – walking down bridges crossing the water to get to Poel
Here is the view a bit zoomed out, showing m
I am sincerely always so fascinated by such moments
…and such surroundings
And such natural paintings…
That’s the view to my right…
…along with this one…
…and that’s the view to my left…
…and to my front.. ugh! I’m telling you – I was stopping for a photo every two minutes
Crossing the last bridge before entering the island
Although the orange color of the fence is really… well, hard to like, I love the way it contrasts with the color of the water
Now that’s what I call a sincere greeting!

As soon as I reach the 1,5 km mark to my destination, I keep staring at my phone every few seconds, as if that will make time and distance pass faster. It doesn’t. But I am so tired! And then I realize that I hadn’t updated the destination to guide me to the guesthouse… again. So I do. And it adds another 1 km to it. So I still have to walk 2,5 km. Okay… no choice but to stick to it now.

Finally I reach the guesthouse in Niendorf, a tiny village on the island. I let myself in (the hostess left me the key in an envelope in the mailbox – I catch it by chance, right before I am about to ring the bell). I get in, and nobody’s there. Yay! Sincerely, yay, as all I want to do is just fall into my room and bed and talk to nobody.

It’s a very stylish house, put together with a lot of love. I love my room with a view right away.

My very beach-style room
And the view… the sun waving goodnight
Magic

I have a warm shower and a comfortable evening, writing down notes and letting the day pass revue. It’s so beautifully quiet, but an annoying guest talks on the phone till about 11 PM, and it sounds like she’s sitting with me in the same room.

Ugh. well, nonetheless I am eagerly waiting for tomorrow. I am excited to see more of the island and then finally to head to Wismar, in disbelief over the fact that I have actually almost made it.

And now… recharge, girl.

(I finally put that plastic cup to use and made hot tap water cocoa-flavored porridge for the first time in it – yay!)

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Trip stats:
21,9 km – 4 hrs 44 minutes (in motion) – 4,6 km (average speed) – 100 m (elevation)

If you’d like to see my full route on komoot, follow this link:
https://www.komoot.de/tour/264582032/zoom